Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
We encamped on a gravelly flat, fifty feet above the river, strewn with
water-worn boulders, and so densely covered with tall _Artemisiæ,_
gigantic grasses, bamboo, plantain, fern, and acacia, that we had to
clear a space in the jungle, which exhaled a rank heavy smell.
Hoar-frost formed copiously in the night, and though above the sun’s
rays were very powerful, they did not reach this spot till 7.30 a.m.,
the frost remaining in the shade till nearly 9 a.m.; and this on
plantains, and other inhabitants of hot-houses in England.
Hence I ascended to Yoksun, one of the most curious and picturesque
spots in Sikkim, and the last inhabited place towards Kinchinjunga. The
path was excessively steep and rocky for the first mile or two, and
then alternately steep and flat. Mixed with many tropical trees, were
walnuts of the common English variety; a tree, which, though planted
here, is wild near Dorjiling, where it bears a full-sized fruit, as
hard as a hickory-nut: those I gathered in this place were similar,
whereas in Bhotan the cultivated nut is larger, thin-shelled, and the
kernel is easily removed. We ascended one slope, of an angle of 36°
30′, which was covered with light black mould, and had been recently
cleared by fire: we found millet now cultivated on it. From the top the
view of the Ratong valley was very fine: to the north lay Yoksun,
appearing from this height to occupy a flat, two miles long and one
broad, girdled by steep mountains to the north and east, dipping very
suddenly 2,200 feet to the Ratong on the west. To the right was a lofty
hill, crowned with the large temple and convents of Doobdi, shadowed by
beautiful weeping cypresses, and backed by lofty pine-clad mountains.
Northward, the gorge of the Ratong opened as a gloomy defile, above
which rose partially snowed mountains, which shut out Kinchinjunga. To
the west, massive pine-clad mountains rose steeply; while the little
hamlet of Lathiang occupied a remarkable shelf overhanging the river,
appearing inaccessible except by ropes from above. South-west, the long
spurs of Molli and Catsuperri, each crowned with convents or temples,
descended from Singalelah; and parallel to them on the south; but much
longer and more lofty, was the great mountain range north of the
Kulbait, with the temples and convents of Pemiongchi, and
Changachelling, towering in the air. The latter range dips suddenly to
the Great Rungeet, where Tassiding, with its chaits and cypresses,
closed the view. The day was half cloud, half sunshine; and the various
effects of light and shade, now bringing out one or other of the
villages and temples, now casting the deep valleys into darker gloom,
was wonderfully fine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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