Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
Yoksun was the earliest civilised corner of Sikkim, and derived its
name (which signifies in Lepcha “three chiefs”) from having been the
residence of three Lamas of great influence, who were the means of
introducing the first Tibetan sovereign into the country. At present it
boasts of but little cultivation, and a scattered population,
inhabiting a few hamlets, 5,500 feet above the sea: beautiful lanes and
paths wind everywhere over the gentle slopes, and through the copsewood
that has replaced the timber-trees of a former period. Mendongs and
chaits are very numerous, some of great size; and there are also the
ruins of two very large temples, near which are some magnificent
weeping cypresses, eighty feet high. These fine trees are landmarks
from all parts of the flat; they form irregular cones of pale bright
green, with naked gnarled tops, the branches weep gracefully, but not
like the picture in Macartney’s Embassy to China, whence originated the
famous willow-pattern of our crockery. The ultimate branchlets are very
slender and pendulous; my Lepcha boys used to make elegant chaplets of
them, binding the withes with scarlet worsted. The trunk is quite
erect, smooth, cylindrical, and pine-like; it harbours no moss, but
air-plants, Orchids, and ferns, nestle on the limbs, and pendulous
lichens, like our beard-moss, wave from the branches.
In the evening I ascended to Doobdi. The path was broad, and skilfully
conducted up a very steep slope covered with forest: the top, which is
6,470 feet above the sea, and nearly 1000 above Yoksun, is a broad
partially paved platform, on which stand two temples, surrounded by
beautiful cypresses: one of these trees (perhaps the oldest in Sikkim)
measured sixteen and a half feet in girth, at five feet from the
ground, and was apparently ninety feet high: it was not pyramidal, the
top branches being dead and broken, and the lower limbs spreading; they
were loaded with masses of white-flowered Cœlogynes, and Vacciniums.
The younger trees were pyramidal.
I was received by a monk of low degree, who made many apologies for the
absence of his superior, who had been ordered an eight years’ penance
and seclusion from the world, of which only three had passed. On
inquiry, I learnt the reason for this; the holy father having found
himself surrounded by a family, to which there would have been no
objection, had he previously obtained a dispensation. As, however, he
had omitted this preliminary, and was able to atone by prayer and
payment, he had been condemned to do penance; probably at his own
suggestion, as the seclusion will give him sanctity, and eventually
lead to his promotion, when his error shall have been forgotten.
[Illustration: Temple and weeping cypress]
Both temples are remarkable for their heavily ornamented, two-storied
porticos, which occupy nearly the whole of one end. The interior
decorations are in a ruinous condition, and evidently very old; they
have no Hindoo emblems.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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