Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
The natives of the place were a more Negro-looking race than the
Bengalees to whom I had previously been accustomed; and the curiosity
and astonishment they displayed at seeing (probably many of them for
the first time) a party of Englishmen, were sufficiently amusing. Our
coolies with provisions not having come up, and it being two o’clock in
the afternoon, I having had no breakfast, and being ignorant of the
exclusively Jain population of the village, sent my servant to the
bazaar, for some fowls and eggs; but he was mobbed for asking for these
articles, and parched rice, beaten flat, with some coarse sugar, was
all I could obtain; together with sweetmeats so odiously flavoured with
various herbs, and sullied with such impurities, that we quickly made
them over to the elephants.
Not being able to ascend the mountain and return in one day, Mr.
Williams and his party went back to the road, leaving Mr. Haddon and
myself, who took up our quarters under a tamarind-tree.
In the evening a very gaudy poojah was performed. The car, filled with
idols, was covered with gilding and silk, and drawn by noble bulls,
festooned and garlanded. A procession was formed in front; and it
opened into an avenue, up and down which gaily dressed dancing-boys
paced or danced, shaking castanets, the attendant worshippers singing
in discordant voices, beating tom-toms, cymbals, etc. Images (of Boodh
apparently) abounded on the car, in front of which a child was placed.
The throng of natives was very great and perfectly orderly, indeed,
sufficiently apathetic: they were remarkably civil in explaining what
they understood of their own worship. At 2 p.m., the thermometer was
only 65°, though the day was fine, a strong haze obstructing the sun’s
rays; at 6 p.m., 58°; at 9 p.m., 56°, and the grass cooled to 49°.
Still there was no dew, though the night was starlight.
Having provided doolies, or little bamboo chairs slung on four men’s
shoulders, in which I put my papers and boxes, we next morning
commenced the ascent; at first through woods of the common trees, with
large clumps of bamboo, over slaty rocks of gneiss, much inclined and
sloping away from the mountain. The view from a ridge 500 feet high was
superb, of the village, and its white domes half buried in the forest
below, the latter of which continued in sight for many miles to the
northward. Descending to a valley some ferns were met with, and a more
luxuriant vegetation, especially of _Urticeæ._ Wild bananas formed a
beautiful, and to me novel feature in the woods.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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