Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
Passing the pretty villa-like houses of the English residents, the
river-banks re-assumed their wonted features the hills receded from the
shore; and steep clay cliffs, twenty to fifty feet high, on one side,
opposed long sandy shelves on the other. Kunker was still most
abundant, especially in the lower bed of the banks, close to the (now
very low) water. The strata containing it were much undulated, but not
uniformly so; horizontal layers over or under-lying the disturbed ones.
At Colgong, conical hills appear, and two remarkable sister-rocks start
out of the river, the same in structure with those of Sultangunj. A
boisterous current swirls round them, strong even at this season, and
very dangerous in the rains, when the swollen river is from
twenty-eight to forty feet deeper than now. We landed opposite the
rocks, and proceeded to the residence of Mr. G. Barnes, prettily
situated on one of the conical elevations characteristic of the geology
of the district. The village we passed through had been recently
destroyed by fire; and nothing but the clay outer walls and
curious-looking partition walls remained, often white-washed and daubed
with figures in red of the palm of the hand, elephant, peacock, and
tiger,—a sort of rude fresco-painting. We did not arrive till past
mid-day, and the boat, with my palkee and servant, not having been able
to face the gale, I was detained till the middle of the following day.
Mr. Barnes and his brother proved most agreeable companions,—very
luckily for me, for it requires no ordinary philosophy to bear being
storm-stayed on a voyage, with the prospect of paying a heavy demurrage
for detaining the dawk, and the worse one of finding the bearers given
to another traveller when you arrive at the rendezvous. The view from
Mr. Barnes’ house is very fine: it commands the river and its rocks;
the Rajmahal hills to the east and south; broad acres of indigo and
other crops below; long lines of palm-trees, and groves of mango,
banana, tamarind, and other tropical trees, scattered close around and
in the distance. In the rainy season, and immediately after, the snowy
Himalaya are distinctly seen on the horizon, fully 170 miles off.
Nearly opposite, the Cosi river enters the Ganges, bearing (considering
its short course) an enormous volume of water, comprising the drainage
of the whole Himalaya between the two giant peaks of Kinchinjunga in
Sikkim, and Gossain-Than in Nepal. Even at this season, looking from
Mr. Barnes’ eyrie over the bed of the Ganges, the enormous expanses of
sand, the numerous shifting islets, and the long spits of mud betray
the proximity of some very restless and resistless power. During the
rains, the scene must indeed be extraordinary, when the Cosi lays many
miles of land under water, and pours so vast a quantity of detritus
into the bed of the Ganges that long islets are heaped up and swept
away in a few hours; and the latter river becomes all but unnavigable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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