Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
Boats are caught in whirlpools, formed without a moment’s warning, and
sunk ere they have spun round thrice in the eddies; and no part of the
inland navigation of India is so dreaded or dangerous, as the Ganges at
its junction with the Cosi.
Rain generally falls in partial showers at this season, and they are
essential to the well-being of the spring crops of indigo. The stormy
appearance of the sky, though it proved fallacious, was hailed by my
hosts as predicting a fall, which was much wanted. The wind however
seemed but to aggravate the drought, by the great body of sand it
lifted and swept up the valleys, obscuring the near horizon, and
especially concealing the whole delta of the Cosi, where the clouds
were so vast and dense, and ascended so high as to resemble another
element.
All night the gale blew on, accompanied with much thunder and
lightning, and it was not till noon of the 9th that I descried my
palkee-boat toiling down the stream. Then I again embarked, taking the
lagging boat in tow of my own. Passing the mouths of the Cosi, the gale
and currents were so adverse that we had to bring up on the sand, when
the quantity which drifted into the boat rendered the delay as
disagreeable as it was tedious. The particles penetrated everywhere, up
my nose and down my back, drying my eyelids, and gritting between my
teeth. The craft kept bumping on the banks, and being both crazy and
leaky, the little comfortless cabin became the refuge of scared rats
and cockroaches. In the evening I shared a meal with these creatures,
on some provisions my kind friends had put into the boat, but the food
was so sandy that I had to bolt my supper!
At night the storm lulled a little, and I proceeded to Caragola Ghat
and took up my dawk, which had been twenty-eight hours expecting me,
and was waiting, in despair of my arrival, for another traveller on the
opposite bank, who however could not cross the river.
Having accomplished thirty miles, I halted at 9 a..m. on the following
morning at Purnea, quitting it at noon for Kishengunj. The whole
country wore a greener garb than I had seen anywhere south of the
Ganges: the climate was evidently more humid, and had been gradually
becoming so from Mirzapore. The first decided change was a few miles
below the Soane mouth, at Dinapore and Patna; and the few hygrometrical
observations I took at Bhagulpore confirmed the increase of moisture.
The proximity to the sea and great Delta of the Ganges sufficiently
accounts for this; as does the approach to the hills for the still
greater dampness and brighter verdure of Purnea. I was glad to feel
myself within the influence of the long-looked-for Himalaya; and I
narrowly watched every change in the character of the vegetation. A
fern, growing by the roadside, was the first and most tangible evidence
of this; together with the rarity or total absence of _Butea,
Boswellia, Catechu, Grislea, Carissa,_ and all the companions of my
former excursion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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