Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
I walked up to the convents, which were long ugly buildings, several
stories high, built of wood, and daubed with red and grey paint.
The priests were nowhere to be found, and an old withered nun, whom
I disturbed husking millet in a large wooden mortar, fled at my
approach. The temple stood close by the convent, and had a broad low
architrave: the walls sloped inwards, as did the lintels: the doors
were black, and almost covered with a gigantic and disproportioned
painting of a head, with bloody cheeks and huge teeth; it was
surrounded by myriads of goggle eyes, which seemed to follow one
about everywhere; and though in every respect rude, the effect was
somewhat imposing. The similarly proportioned gloomy portals of
Egyptian fanes naturally invite comparison; but the Tibetan temples
lack the sublimity of these; and the uncomfortable creeping sensation
produced by the many sleepless eyes of Boodh's numerous incarnations
is very different from the awe with which we contemplate the
outspread wings of the Egyptian symbol, and feel as in the presence
of the God who says, "I am Osiris the Great: no man hath dared to
lift my veil."
I had ascended behind the village, but returned down the "via sacra,"
a steep paved path flanked by mendongs or low stone dykes, into which
were let rows of stone slabs, inscribed with the sacred "Om Mani
Padmi om."--"Hail to him of the lotus and jewel"; an invocation of
Sakkya, who is usually represented holding a lotus flower with a
jewel in it.
On the following morning, a scanty supply of vcry dirty rice was
produced, at a very high price. I had, however, so divided my party
as not to require a great amount of food, intending to send most of
the people back by the Tambur to Dorjiling. I kept nineteen persons
in all, selecting the most willing, as it was evident the journey at
this season would be one of great hardship: we took seven days' food,
which was as much as they could carry. At noon, I left Wallanchoon,
and mustered my party at the junction of the Tambur and Yangma,
whence I dismissed the party for Dorjiling, with my collections of
plants, minerals, etc., and proceeded with the chosen ones to ascend
the Yangma river. The scenery was wild and very grand, our path lying
through a narrow gorge, choked with pine trees, down which the river
roared in a furious torrent; while the mountains on each side were
crested with castellated masses of rock, and sprinkled with snow.
The road was very bad, often up ladders, and along planks lashed to
the faces of precipices, and over-hanging the torrent, which it
crossed several times by plank bridges. By dark we arrived at Yangma
Guola, a collection of empty wood huts buried in the rocky
forest-clad valley, and took possession of a couple. They were well
built, raised on posts, with a stage and ladder at the gable end, and
consisted of one good-sized apartment. Around was abundance of dock,
together with three common English plants.* [_Cardamine hirsuta,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account