Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
Limosella aquatica,_ and _Juncus bufonius._]
The night was calm, misty, and warm (Max. 41.5 degrees, Min. 29
degrees) for the elevation (9,300 feet). During the night, I was
startled out of my sleep by a blaze of light, and jumping up, found
myself in presence of a party of most sinister-looking, black, ragged
Tibetans, armed with huge torches of pine, that filled the room with
flame and pitchy smoke. I remembered their arriving just before dark,
and their weapons dispelled my fears, for they came armed with bamboo
jugs of Murwa beer, and were very drunk and very amiable: they
grinned, nodded, kotowed, lolled out their tongues, and scratched
their ears in the most seductive manner, then held out their jugs,
and besought me by words and gestures to drink and be happy too.
I awoke my servant (always a work of difficulty), and with some
trouble ejected the visitors, happily without setting the house on
fire. I heard them toppling head over heels down the stair, which I
afterwards had drawn up to prevent further intrusion, and in spite of
their drunken orgies, was soon lulled to sleep again by the music of
the roaring river.
On the 29th November, I continued my course north up the Yangma
valley, which after five miles opened considerably, the trees
disappearing, and the river flowing more tranquilly, and through a
broader valley, when above 11,000 feet elevation. The Guobah of
Wallanchoon overtook us on the road; on his way, he said, to collect
the revenues at Yangma village, but in reality to see what I was
about. He owns five considerable villages, and is said to pay a tax
of 6000 rupees (600 pounds) to the Rajah of Nepal: this is no doubt a
great exaggeration, but the revenues of such a position, near a pass
frequented almost throughout the year, must be considerable.
Every yak going and coming is said to pay 1s., and every horse 4s.;
cattle, sheep, ponies, land, and wool are all taxed; he exports also
quantities of timber to Tibet, and various articles from the plains
of India. He joined my party and halted where I did, had his little
Chinese rug spread, and squatted cross-legged on it, whilst his
servant prepared his brick tea with salt, butter, and soda, of which
he partook, snuffed, smoked, rose up, had all his traps repacked, and
was off again.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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