Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
Between the moraines, near my tent, the soil was perfectly level,
and consisted of little lake-beds strewn with gigantic boulders, and
covered with hard turf of grass and sedge, and little bushes of dwarf
rhododendron and prostrate juniper, as trim as if they had been
clipped. Altogether these formed the most picturesque little nooks it
was possible to conceive; and they exhibited the withered remains of
so many kinds of primrose, gentian, anemone, potentilla, orchis,
saxifrage, parnassia, campanula, and pedicularis, that in summer they
must be perfect gardens of wild flowers. Around each plot of a few
acres was the grand ice-transported girdle of stupendous rocks, many
from 50 to 100 feet long, crested with black tabular-branched silver
firs, conical deep green tree-junipers, and feathery larches; whilst
amongst the blocks grew a profusion of round masses of evergreen
rhododendron bushes. Beyond were stupendous frowning cliffs, beneath
which the river roared like thunder; and looking up the glacial
valley, the setting sun was bathing the expanse of snow in the most
delicate changing tints, pink, amber, and gold.
The boulders forming the moraine were so enormous and angular, that I
had great difficulty in ascending it. I saw some pheasants feeding on
the black berries of the juniper, but where the large rhododendrons
grew amongst the rocks I found it impossible to penetrate.
The largest of the moraines is piled to upwards of 1000 feet against
the south flank of the lateral valley, and stretched far up it beyond
my camp, which was in a grove of silver firs. A large flock of sheep
and goats, laden with salt, overtook us here on their route from
Wallanchoon to Yalloong. The sheep I observed to feed on the
_Rhododendron Thomsoni_ and _campylocarpum. On the roots of one of
the latter species a parasitical Broom-rape (_Orobanche_) grew
abundantly; and about the moraines were more mosses, lichens, etc.,
than I have elsewhere seen in the loftier Himalaya, encouraged no
doubt by the dampness of this grand mountain gorge, which is so
hemmed in that the sun never reaches it until four or five hours
after it has gilded the overhanging peaks.
_December_ 5.--The morning was bright and clear, and we left early
for the Choonjerma pass. I had hoped the route would be up the
magnificent glacier-girdled valley in which we had encamped; but it
lay up another, considerably south of it, and to which we crossed,
ascending the rocky moraine, in the clefts of which grew abundance of
a common Scotch fern, _Cryptogramma crispa_!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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