Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
The clouds early commenced gathering, and it was curious to watch
their rapid formation in coalescing streaks, which became first
cirrhi, and then stratus, being apparently continually added to from
below by the moisture-bringing southerly wind. Ascending a lofty
spur, 1000 feet above the valley, against which the moraine was
banked, I found it to be a distinct anticlinal axis. The pass,
bearing north-west, and the valley we had descended on the previous
day, rose immediately over the curved strata of quartz, topped by the
glacier-crowned mountain of Nango, with four glaciers descending from
its perpetual snows. The stupendous cliffs on its flanks, under which
I had camped on the previous night, were very grand, but not more so
than those which dipped into the chasm of the Kambachen below.
Looking up the valley of the latter, was another wilderness of ice
full of enormous moraines, round the bases of which the river wound.
Ascending, we reached an open grassy valley, and overtook the
Tibetans who had preceded us, and who had halted here to feed their
sheep. A good-looking girl of the party came to ask me for medicine
for her husband's eyes, which had suffered from snow-blindness: she
brought me a present of snuff, and carried a little child, stark
naked, yet warm from the powerful rays of the sun, at nearly 14,000
feet elevation, in December! I prescribed for the man, and gave the
mother a bright farthing to hang round the child's neck, which
delighted the party. My watch was only wondered at; but a little
spring measuring-tape that rolled itself up, struck them dumb, and
when I threw it on the ground with the tape out, the mother shrieked
and ran away, while the little savage howled after her.
Above, the path up the ascent was blocked with snowbeds, and for
several miles we alternately scrambled among rocks and over slippery
slopes, to the top of the first ridge, there being two to cross.
The first consisted of a ridge of rocks running east and west from a
superb sweep of snowy mountains to the north-west, which presented a
chaotic scene of blue glacial ice and white snow, through which
splintered rocks and beetling crags thrust their black heads.
The view into the Kambachen gorge was magnificent, though it did not
reveal the very bottom of the valley and its moraines: the black
precipices of its opposite flank seemed to rise to the glaciers of
Nango, fore-shortened into snow-capped precipices 5000 feet high,
amongst which lay the Kambachen pass, bearing north-west by north.
Lower down the valley, appeared a broad flat, called Jubla, a
halting-place one stage below the village of Kambachen, on the road
to Lelyp on the Tambur: it must be a remarkable geological as well as
natural feature, fao it appeared to jut abruptly and quite
horizontally from the black cliffs of the valley.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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