Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Volume 1: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
This being a festival day, when the natives were bringing offerings
to the altar, we also visited the old temple, a small wooden
building. Besides more substantial offerings, there were little cones
of rice with a round wafer of butter at the top, ranged on the altar
in order.* [The worshippers, on entering, walk straight up to the
altar, and before, or after, having deposited their gifts, they lift
both hands to the forehead, fall on their knees, and touch the ground
three times with both head and hands, raising the body a little
between each prostration. They then advance to the head Lama, kotow
similarly to him, and he blesses them, laying both hands on their
heads and repeating a short formula. Sometimes the dorje is used in
blessing, as the cross is in Europe, and when a mass of people
request a benediction, the Lama pronounces it from the door of the
temple with outstretched arms, the people all being prostrate, with
their foreheads touching the ground.] Six Lamas were at prayer,
psalms, and contemplation, sitting cross-legged on two small benches
that ran down the building: one was reading, with his hand and
fore-finger elevated, whilst the others listened; anon they all sang
hymns, repeated sacred or silly precepts to the bystanders, or joined
in a chorus with boys, who struck brass cymbals, and blew straight
copper trumpets six feet long, and conch-shells mounted with broad
silver wings, elegantly carved with dragons. There were besides
manis, or praying-cylinders, drums, gongs, books, and trumpets made
of human thigh-bones, plain or mounted in silver.
Throughout Sikkim, we were roused each morning at daybreak by this
wild music, the convents being so numerous that we were always within
hearing of it. To me it was always deeply impressive, sounding so
foreign, and awakening me so effectually to the strangeness of the
wild land in which I was wandering, and of the many new and striking
objects it contained. After sleep, too, during which the mind has
either been at rest, or carried away to more familiar subjects, the
feelings of loneliness and sometimes even of despondency, conjured
up, by this solemn music, were often almost oppressive.
Ascending from Neongong, we reached that pass from the Teesta to the
Great Rungeet, which I had crossed on the 22nd; and this time we had
a splendid view, down both the valleys, of the rivers, and the many
spars from the ridge communicating between Tendong and Mainom, with
many scattered villages and patches of cultivation. Near the top I
found a plant of "Praong," (a small bamboo), in full seed; this sends
up many flowering branches from the root, and but few leaf-bearing
ones; and after maturing its seed, and giving off suckers from the
root, the parent plant dies. The fruit is a dark, long grain, like
rice; it is boiled and made into cakes, or into beer, like Murwa.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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