Camp on Zemu river -- Scenery -- Falling rocks -- Tukcham mountain -- Height of glaciers -- Botany -- Gigantic rhubarb -- Insects -- Storm -- Temperature of rivers -- Behaviour of Lachen Phipun -- Hostile conduct of Bhoteeas -- View from mountains above camp -- Descend to Zemu Samdong -- Vegetation -- Letters from Dorjiling -- Arrival of Singtam Soubah -- Presents from Rajah -- Parties collecting arum-roots -- Insects -- Ascend Lachen river -- Thakya-zong -- Tallum Samdong village -- Cottages -- Mountains -- Plants -- Entomology -- Weather -- Halo -- Diseases -- Conduct of Singtam Soubah -- His character and illness -- Agrees to take me to Kongra Lama -- Tungu -- Appearance of country -- Houses -- Poisoning by aram-roots -- Yaks and calves -- Tibet ponies -- Journey to Kongra Lama -- Tibetan tents -- Butter, curds, and churns -- Hospitality -- Kinchinjhow and Chomiomo -- Magnificent scenery -- Reach Kongra Lama pass. CHAPTER XXI. Top of Kongra Lama -- Tibet frontier -- Elevation -- View -- Vegetation -- Descent to Tungu -- Tungu-choo -- Ponies -- Kinchinjhow and Chango-khang mountains -- Palung plains -- Tibetans -- Dogs -- Dingcham province of Tibet -- Inhabitants -- Dresses -- Women's ornaments -- Blackening faces -- Coral -- Tents -- Elevation of Palung -- Lama -- Shawl-wool goats -- Shearing -- Siberian plants -- Height of glaciers, and perpetual snow -- Geology -- Plants, and wild animals -- Marmots -- Insects -- Birds -- Choongtam Lama -- Religious exercises -- Tibetan hospitality -- _Delphinium_ -- Perpetual snow -- Temperature at Tungu -- Return to Tallum Samdong -- To Lamteng -- Houses -- Fall of barometer -- Cicadas -- Lime deposits -- Landslips -- Arrival at Choongtam -- Cobra -- Rageu -- Heat of climate -- Velocity and volume of rivers measured -- Leave for Lachoong valley -- Keadom -- General features of valley -- Lachoong village -- Tunkra mountain -- Moraines -- Cultivation -- Lachoong Phipun -- Lama ceremonies beside a sick-bed. CHAPTER XXII.