Historic buildings : $b as seen and described by great writers
History
Historic buildings : $b as seen and described by great writers
Architecture -- History; Art -- Study and teaching; Historic buildings
The pavement is however still left open, and it is of infinite
interest, although grievously distorted and defaced. For whenever a new
chapel has been built, or a new altar erected, the pavement has been
broken up and readjusted so as to surround the newly inserted steps or
stones with some appearance of symmetry; portions of it either covered
or carried away, others mercilessly shattered or replaced by modern
imitations, and those of very different periods, with pieces of the
old floor left here and there in the midst of them, and worked round
so as to deceive the eye into acceptance of the whole as ancient. The
portion, however, which occupies the western extremity of the nave, and
the parts immediately adjoining it in the aisles, are, I believe, in
their original positions, and very little injured: they are composed
chiefly of groups of peacocks, lions, stags, and griffins,--two of
each in a group, drinking out of the same vase, or shaking claws
together,--enclosed by interlacing bands, and alternating with chequer
or star patterns, and here and there an attempt at representation
of architecture, all worked in marble mosaic. The floors of Torcello
and of St. Mark’s are executed in the same manner; but what remains
at Murano is finer than either, in the extraordinary play of colour
obtained by the use of variegated marbles. At St. Mark’s the patterns
are more intricate, and the pieces far more skillfully set together;
but each piece is there commonly of one colour: at Murano every
fragment is itself variegated, and all are arranged with a skill and
feeling not to be taught, and to be observed with deep reverence, for
that pavement is not dateless, like the rest of the church; it bears
its date on one of its central circles, 1140, and is, in my mind, one
of the most precious monuments in Italy, showing thus early, and in
those rude chequers which the bared knee of the Murano fisher wears
in its daily bending, the beginning of that mighty spirit of Venetian
colour, which was to be consummated in Titian.
But we must quit the church for the present, for its garnishings are
completed; the candles are all upright in their sockets, and the
curtains are drawn into festoons, and a pasteboard crescent, gay with
artificial flowers, has been attached to the capital of every pillar,
in order, together with the gilt angels, to make the place look as
much like Paradise as possible. If we return to-morrow, we shall
find it filled with woeful groups of aged men and women, wasted and
fever-struck, fixed in paralytic supplication, half kneeling, half
couched upon the pavement; bowed down, partly in feebleness, partly
in a fearful devotion, with their grey clothes cast far over their
faces, ghastly and settled into a gloomy animal misery, all but the
glittering eyes and muttering lips.
Fit inhabitants, these, for what was once the Garden of Venice, “a
terrestrial paradise,--a place of nymphs and demigods!”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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