Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- History
Rue Damrémont is modern; in the little Rue des Cloys opening out of it
at No. 102 we see vestiges of a curious old _cité_ of wooden dwellings.
Rue Neuve de la Chardonnière recalls the days when it was a
thistle-grown road. Rue du Poteau reminds us of the gallows of the
St-Ouen road. The Avenue de Clichy and the Avenue St-Ouen which form the
boundary of the arrondissement, both date back as important roads to the
seventeenth century. Along them we find here and there traces of ancient
buildings, none of special interest. To the east of the boulevards
Ornano and Barbes, which run through the arrondissement from north to
south, we find numerous ancient streets, mostly short. The street of
chief importance is Rue des Poissonniers, its lower end merged in
boulevard Barbes. We see several unimportant old houses along its
course. The impasse du Cimetière and the schools we see there are on
the site of an old graveyard. In Rue Affre, bearing the name of the
archbishop of Paris slain on the barricades in 1848 (_see_ p. 250), we
find the modern church St-Bernard, of pure fifteenth-century Gothic as
to style, but far inferior in workmanship to the Gothic structures of
ages past. Rue de la Chapelle, known in Napoléon’s time as Faubourg de
la Gloire, began as the Calais Road, then became the Grande Rue de la
Chapelle. La Chapelle is a spot of remarkable historic memories. It
began as the Village des Roses--in days when roses, wild and cultivated,
grew in abundance in what is now a Paris slum. Then the population,
remembering that Ste-Geneviève had stopped to rest and pray in the
church on her way to St-Denis, called their village La Chapelle-Ste-Geneviève.
Later it was named la Chapelle-St-Denis. To the church at la Chapelle
went Jeanne d’Arc in the fateful year 1425. We find ancient houses all
along the course of this old thoroughfare, and at No. 96 the church
dedicated to St-Denis, built by Maurice de Sully, the chancel of that
thirteenth-century structure still intact, after going through two
disastrous fires and suffering damage in times of war. It has been
enlarged in recent years. The statue of Jeanne d’Arc there dates from
the reign of Louis XVI.
A popular fair, la Foire de Lendit, instituted by Dagobert, was held
during centuries at the extreme end of the ancient thoroughfare. No.
122, built, tradition tells us, by Henri IV and given to his minister
Sully, became in the seventeenth century the Cabaret de la Rose Blanche.
At No. 1 Rue Boucry we see an ancient chapel now used as a public hall.
CHAPTER XLVII
AMONG THE COALYARDS AND THE MEAT-MARKETS
ARRONDISSEMENT XIX. (BUTTES-CHAUMONT)
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