Paris (France) -- Description and travel; Paris (France) -- History
In Rue Clovis, at the summit of the Montagne Ste-Geneviève stands the
Lycée Henri IV, dating as a school from 1796, known for several
subsequent years as Lycée-Napoléon. It recalls vividly the abbey which
once stood there. Its tower, known as the “Tour de Clovis,” rises from
the foundations of the eleventh-century abbey tower and was for long
used as the Paris Observatory. The college kitchen is one of the
ancient abbey cellars--cellars in three stories. Some of the walls
before us date from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. The library
founded by Cardinal de la Rochefoucauld is the boys’ dormitory. A
cloister and seventeenth-century refectory are there intact. The pupils
go up and down a fine eighteenth-century staircase, and study amid
interesting frescoes and much beautiful woodwork. New buildings were
added to the ancient ones in 1873.
CHAPTER XVII
LA MONTAGNE STE-GENEVIÈVE
Rue de la Montagne Ste-Geneviève, leading to the hill-top from Boulevard
St-Germain, went in twelfth-century days by the unæsthetic name Rue des
Boucheries. Nearly every wall, every stone is ancient. In past ages
three colleges at different positions stood on its incline. The sign at
No. 40 dates from the time of the Directoire. A statuette of the saint
there in Revolution days was labelled, “A la ci-devant Geneviève;
Rendez-vous des Sans-Culottes.” And now we have before us the beautiful
old church St-Etienne-du-Mont. The _place_, in very early times a
graveyard, was laid out as a square in the fourteenth century and the
church burial ground was on the north-western side. The present church
dates as a whole from the early years of the seventeenth century, built
on the site of a thirteenth-century chapel dedicated to St-Etienne. The
_abside_ and the choir were built in early sixteenth-century years,
close up against the old basilic of the abbey Ste-Geneviève. Among the
people the church is still often referred to as l’Église Ste-Geneviève,
chiefly, no doubt, because the tomb of the patron saint of Paris is
there. The original _châsse_--a richly jewel-studded shrine--was
destroyed at the Revolution, melted down, its gems confiscated, the
bones of the Saint burnt. The stone coffin cast aside as valueless was
recovered, filled with such relics of Ste-Geneviève as could be
collected from far and near, and is now in the sumptuous shrine to which
pilgrimages are continually made. A smaller _châsse_ is solemnly carried
round the aisles of the church each year during the “neuvaine” following
January 3rd, the revered Saint’s fête day, when services are held all
day long, while on the _place_ without a religious fair goes on ...
souvenirs of Ste-Geneviève and objects of piety of every description are
offered for sale on the stalls set up upon the _place_ from end to end.
The church, showing three distinct styles of architecture, Romanesque,
Gothic, Renaissance, is especially remarkable for its rood-screen--the
only one left in a Paris church.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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