History of a literary radical, and other essaysBourne, Randolph Silliman
General
History of a literary radical, and other essays
Bourne, Randolph Silliman
American essays -- 20th century
Specifically, I visited the municipal workingmen’s cottages in Ulm
and saw the town-planning charts of the city in the office of the
_Stadtbaurat_; the huge apartments, municipally built and owned,
in Munich; the big _Volksbad_ in Nuremberg, and the garden-city
workingmen’s suburb at Lichtenhof, with the schoolchildrens’ garden
allotments; the model garbage-disposal plant at Furth, a miracle of
scientific resource and economy; the extraordinary model municipal
slaughter-house at Dresden, so characteristically German with its
_Schlachthof_ and _Direktorhaus_ at the entrance; and, lastly the
famous garden-city of Hellerau, inferior, however, on the whole, to
the English Hampstead Suburb at Golders Green. Towns like Rothenburg
and Nordlingen were little laboratories of mediæval and modern
town-planning. The _Stadtbaurat_ at Rothenburg went over for us the
development of the city, and gave us considerable insight into the
government, policy and spirit of a typical little German municipality.
Undemocratic in political form, yet ultra-democratic in policy and
spirit, scientific, impartial, giving the populace--who seemed to have
no sense of being excluded from “rights”--what they really wanted, far
more truly than our democracies seem to be able to secure, this epitome
of the German political scheme served to convince us that we were in a
world where our ordinary neat categories of political thought simply
didn’t apply. It was futile to attempt an interpretation in Anglo-Saxon
terms. There was no objective evidence of the German groaning under
“autocracy” and “paternalism.” One found oneself for the first time in
the presence of a government between whom and the people there seemed
to exist some profound and subtle sympathy, a harmony of spirit and
ends.
It was dramatic to sweep up through the endless billowing fields and
carefully tended forests and imposing factory towns--Germany, caught at
mid-summer, in the full tide of prosperity--and come into Berlin on
the morning of “the historic day,” July 31st, 1914, with the agitated
capital on the brink of war; to see the arrival of the Kaiser and
the princes at the Schloss; to watch the Crown Prince’s automobile
blocked twenty feet away from us by the cheering crowd;--“der _wahre_
Kriegesmann,” as the papers were calling him in contemptuous contrast
to his peaceful father; to hear the speech of the latter--grim,
staccato-voiced, helmeted figure, very symbol of war--from the balcony
of the palace; to watch next day the endless files of reservists
marching through the streets to the casernes to “einkleiden”; and
then to hear the finally fatal news of Russia’s refusal with the
swarming crowds on Unter den Linden, hysterical from both fervor and
anxiety. If ever there was a tense and tragic moment, when destiny
seemed concentrated into a few seconds of time, it was that 5 P. M. on
the afternoon of August first, at the corner of Unter den Linden and
Friedrichstrasse, in Berlin.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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