The new points are duly chronicled.[549] In 1677 the _Mercure_ announces,
"They make now many points de France without grounds, and 'picots en
campannes' to all the five handkerchiefs. We have seen some with little
flowers over the large, which might be styled 'flying flowers,' being only
attached in the centre."
In 1678 it says: "The last points de France have no brides, the fleurons
are closer together. The flowers, which are in higher relief in the centre,
and lower at the edges, are united by small stalks and flowers, which keep
them in their places, instead of brides. The manner of disposing the
branches, called 'ordonnances,' is of two kinds: the one is a twirling
stalk, which throws out flowers; the other is regular--a centre flower,
throwing out regular branches on each side." In October of the same year,
the _Mercure_ says: {191}"There has been no change in the patterns," and it
does not allude to them again. What can these be but Venice patterns? The
flower upon flower--like "fleurs volante"--exactly answers to the point in
high relief (Fig. 87).
[Illustration: Fig. 87.
VENICE POINT.--"Dentelle Volante."]
A memoir drawn up in 1698 by M. de Pommereu[550] is the next mention we
find of the fabric of Alençon. "The manufacture of the points de France is
also," he says, "one of the most considerable in the country. This fabric
began at Alençon, where most of the women and girls work at it, to the
number of more than eight to nine hundred, without counting those in the
country, which are in considerable numbers. It is a commerce of about
500,000 livres per annum. This point is called 'vilain'[551] in the
country; the principal sale was in Paris during the war, but the demand
increases very much since the peace, in consequence of its exportation to
foreign countries." The number of lace-workers given by M. Pommereu appears
small, but Alençon {192}manufacture was then on the decline. The death of
its protector, Colbert (1683), and the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes,
which reduced the population one-third, the industrial families (qui
faisaient le principal commerce) retiring to England and Scotland, the long
wars of Louis XIV., and, finally, his death in 1715, all contributed to
diminish its prosperity.[552]
Savary, writing in 1726, mentions the manufacture of Alençon as not being
so flourishing, but attributes it to the long wars of Louis XIV. He adds,
"It still, however, maintains itself with some reputation at Alençon; the
magnificence, or, if you like, the luxury of France, sufficing to keep it
up even in war-time; but it flourishes principally in peace, in consequence
of the large exports to foreign countries." Russia and Poland were its
great marts: and before the Revolution, Poland estimates the annual value
of the manufacture at 11,000,000 to 12,000,000 livres.[553] The workwomen
earned from three sous to three livres per day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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