In 1680, in _Britannia Languens_, a discourse upon trade, it states that
"the laces commonly called points de Venise now come mostly from France,
and amount to a vast sum yearly."
PLATE LV.
[Illustration: FRENCH. POINT D'ALENÇON.--Eighteenth century. Period Louis
XV. Needle-point lappet end and border. These show in combination the
"Alençon," "réseau," and the "Argentan" hexagonal "brides." The ribands in
the border show varieties of diaper pattern stitches similar to those in
the "modes" of heavy Venetian points. Widths: lappet 4½ in., border 3½ in.
Victoria and Albert Museum.]
_To face page 192._
{193}Point d'Alençon is made entirely by hand, with a fine needle, upon a
parchment pattern, in small pieces, afterwards united by invisible seams.
There are twelve processes, including the design, each of which is executed
by a special workwoman. These can again be subdivided, until the total
number of processes is twenty or twenty-two.[554] The design, engraved upon
a copper plate, is printed off in divisions upon pieces of parchment ten
inches long, each numbered according to its order. Green parchment is now
used, and has been in vogue since 1769, at which date it is noted in an
inventory of Simon Geslin (April 13th, 1769). The worker is better able to
detect any faults in her work than on white. The pattern is next pricked
upon the parchment, which is stitched to a piece of very coarse linen
folded double. The outline of the pattern is then formed by two flat
threads, which are guided along the edge by the thumb of the left hand, and
fixed by minute stitches passed, with another thread and needle, through
the holes of the parchment. When the outline is finished, the work is given
over to the "réseleuse" to make the ground, which is of two kinds, bride
and réseau. The delicate réseau is worked backwards and forwards from the
footing to the picot--of the bride, more hereafter. Besides the hexagonal
bride ground, and the ground of meshes, there was another variety of
grounding used in Alençon lace. "This ground consists of
buttonhole-stitched skeleton hexagons, within each of which was worked a
small solid hexagon connected with the surrounding figure by means of six
little tyes or brides." Lace with this particular ground has been called
Argentella.[555] In making the flowers of Alençon point, the worker
supplies herself with a long needle and a fine thread; with these she works
the "point noué" (buttonhole stitch) from left to right, and when arrived
at the end of the flower, the thread is thrown back from the point of
departure, and she works again from left to right over the thread. This
gives a closeness and evenness to the work unequalled in any other point.
Then follow the "modes," and other different operations, which completed,
the threads which unite lace, {194}parchment and linen together, are cut
with a sharp razor passed between the two folds of linen, any little
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