In the accounts of Madame du Barry, no point d'Alençon is mentioned--always
point à l'aiguille--and "needle point" is the name by which point d'Alençon
was alone known in England during the last century. The purchases of needle
point of Madame du Barry were most extensive. Sleeves (engageantes) and
lappets for 8,400 livres; court ruffles at 1,100; a mantelet at 2,400; a
veste at 6,500; a grande coëffe, 1,400; a garniture, 6,010, etc.[561]
In the description of the Department of the Orne drawn up in 1801, it is
stated, "Fifteen years back there were from 7,000 to 8,000 lace-workers at
Alençon and its environs: the fabric of Argentan, whose productions are
finer and more costly, had about 2,000." Almost all these lace-makers, some
of whom made réseau, others the bride ground, passed into England, Spain,
Italy, Germany, and the courts of the north, especially to Russia. These
united fabrics produced to the annual value of at least 1,800,000 fr., and
when they had extraordinary orders, such as "parures" for beds and other
large works, it increased to 2,000,000 fr. (£80,000). But this commerce,
subject to the variable empire of fashion, had declined one-half even
before the Revolution. Now it is almost nothing, and cannot be estimated at
more than 150,000 to 200,000 fr. per annum. "It supported three {196}cities
and their territory, for that of Séez[562] bore its part. Some black laces
are still made at Séez, but they are of little importance.--P.S. These
laces have obtained a little favour at the last Leipsic fair."[563]
The manufacture of Alençon was nearly extinct when the patronage of
Napoleon caused it to return almost to its former prosperity. Among the
orders executed for the Emperor on his marriage with the Empress Marie
Louise, was a bed furniture of great richness. Tester, curtains, coverlet,
pillow-cases. The principal subject represented the arms of the empire
surrounded by bees. From its elaborate construction, point d'Alençon is
seldom met with in pieces of large size; the amount of labour therefore
expended on this bed must have been marvellous. Mrs. Palliser, when at
Alençon, was so fortunate as to meet with a piece of the ground powdered
with bees, bought from the ancient fabric of Mercier, at Lonray, when the
stock many years back was sold off and dispersed (Fig. 89). The point
d'Alençon bees are appliqué upon a pillow ground, "vrai réseau," executed
probably at Brussels. Part of the "équipage" of the King of Rome excited
the universal admiration of all beholders at the Paris Exhibition of 1855.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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