The finest collection of Auvergne lace in the International Exhibition
(1867) was from the fabric of Crâponne (Haute-Loire),[658] established in
1830 by M. Théodore Falcon, to whom Le Puy is indebted for her "musée de
dentelles," containing specimens of the lace of all countries and all ages,
a most useful and instructive collection for the centre of a lace district.
Le Puy has also a lace school, numbering a hundred pupils, and a school of
design for lace patterns, founded in 1859.[659]
AURILLAC AND MURAT (DÉP. CANTAL).
"L'on fait à Orillac les dentelles quit ont vogue dans le royaume," writes,
in 1670, the author of the _Délices de la France_.[660] The origin of the
fabric is assigned to the fourteenth century, when a company of emigrants
established themselves at Cuença and Valcameos, and nearly all the points
of Aurillac were exported into Spain through this company. In 1688 there
was sold on the Place at Marseilles annually to the amount of 350,000
livres of the products of Aurillac, with other fine laces of Auvergne.[661]
In 1726 the produce was already reduced to 200,000 livres. The finest
"points de France," writes Savary, were made at Aurillac and Murat, the
former alone at one time producing to the annual value of 700,000 francs
(£28,000), and giving occupation to from 3,000 to 4,000 lace-workers.
[Illustration: PLATE LXIII.
PLATE LXIV.
FRENCH.--Two specimens bought in France as Cambrai. They are typical of
Northern French laces that became naturalised in England after the French
Revolution. Widths, 2½ and 3½ in.
Photos by A. Dryden from private collection.]
PLATE LXV.
[Illustration: FRENCH. BOBBIN-MADE.--From the environs of Le Puy. Period
Louis XIII.-Louis XIV. Now made and called Guipure de Cluny.
In the Musée Cinquantenaire, Brussels.]
_To face page 246_
{247}An attempt to establish a "bureau" for Colbert's new manufacture of
points de France was at first opposed, as we read: "Les trois femmes
envoyées par les entrepreneurs pour établir cette manufacture furent
attaqués dans les rues d'Aurillac. Les ouvrières de cette ville leur disait
'qu'elles prouvaient s'en retourner, parce qu'elles savaient mieux
travailler qu'elles.'"[662]
The lace-makers would not give up what the intendant terms "the wretched
old point," which M. Henri Duref, the historian of the Département de
Cantal, describes, on the contrary, as consisting of rich flowered designs,
such as may be seen by studying the portraits of many Auvergnat noblemen of
the period. There are various letters on the subject in the Colbert
Correspondence; and in the last from Colbert, 1670, he writes that the
point d'Aurillac is improving, and there are 8,000 lace-women at work. It
appears that he established at Aurillac a manufactory of lace where they
made, upon "des dessins flamands modifiés," a special article, then named
"point Colbert," and subsequently "point d'Aurillac."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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