The laces of Murat (Dép. Haute-Garonne) were "façon de {249}Malines et de
Lille." They were also made at La Chaise Dieu, Alenches, and Verceilles.
Those points were greatly esteemed, and purchased by the wholesale traders
of Le Puy and Clermont, who distributed them over the kingdom through their
colporteurs.
The fabrics of Aurillac and Murat ended with the Revolution. The women,
finding they could earn more as domestic servants in the neighbouring
towns, on the restoration of order, never again returned to their ancient
occupation.
{250}CHAPTER XIX.
LIMOUSIN.
In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, a kind of pillow net (torchon
entoilage, Mr. Ferguson calls it)[665] for women's sleeves was manufactured
at Tulle (Corrèze) and also at Aurillac. From this circumstance many
writers have derived tulle, the French name for bobbin net, from this town.
M. Lefébure is of this opinion, and adduces in favour of it the fact that
lace was made at Tulle in the eighteenth century, and that an account of
1775 mentions certain Mesdemoiselles Gantes as lace-makers in that town.
The first dictionary in which the word "tulle" occurs is the French
Encyclopædia of 1765, where we find, "Tulle, une espèce de dentelle commune
mais plus ordinairement ce qu'on appelait entoilage."[666] Entoilage, as we
have already shown, is the plain net ground upon which the pattern is
worked[667] or a plain net used to widen points or laces, or worn as a
plain border. In Louis XV.'s reign Madame de Mailly is described, after she
had retired from the world, as "sans rouge, sans poudre, et, qui plus est,
sans dentelles, attendu qu'elle ne portait plus que de l'entoilage à bord
plat."[668] We read in the _Tableau de Paris_ how "Le tul, la gaz et le
marli ont occupés cent mille mains." Tulle was made on the pillow in
Germany before lace was introduced. If tulle derived its name from any
town, it would more probably be from Toul, celebrated, as all others in
Lorraine, for its embroidery; and as net resembles the stitches made in
embroidery by separating the threads (hemstitch, etc.), it {251}may have
taken its French name, Tulle, German Tüll, from the points de Tulle of the
workwomen of the town of Toul, called in Latin Tullum, or Tullo.[669]
LORRAINE.
The lace[670] manufactures of Lorraine flourished in the seventeenth
century. Mirecourt (Dép. Vosges) and the villages of its environs,
extending to the department of Meurthe, was the great centre of this trade,
which formed the sole occupation of the countrywomen. For some centuries
the lace-workers employed only hempen thread, spun in the environs of
Épinal, and especially at Châtel-sur-Moselle.[671] From this they produced
a species of coarse guipure termed "passament," or, in the patois of the
province, "peussemot."[672]
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