As early as the seventeenth century they set aside this coarse article and
soon produced a finer and more delicate lace with various patterns: they
now made double ground and mignonette; and at Lunéville (Dép. Meurthe),
"dentelles à l'instar de Flandre." In 1715 an edict of Duke Leopold
regulates the manufacture at Mirecourt.[673] The lace was exported to Spain
and the Indies. It found its way also to Holland, the German States, and
England, where Randle Holme mentions "Points of Lorraine, without
raisings."[674]
The Lorraine laces were mostly known in commerce as {252}"Les dentelles de
Saint-Mihiel," from the town of that name, one of the chief places of the
fabric. These last-named laces were much esteemed on their first
appearance. Previous to the union of Lorraine to France in 1766, there were
scarcely 800 lace-makers in Mirecourt. The number amounted to nearly 25,000
in 1869.[675]
Early in the nineteenth century the export trade gave place to more
extensive dealings with France. "Point de Flandres" was then very much
made, the patterns imported by travelling merchants journeying on their way
to Switzerland. Anxious to produce novelty, the manufacturers of Mirecourt
wisely sent for draughtsmen and changed the old patterns. Their success was
complete. They soon became formidable rivals to Lille, Geneva, and the Val
de Travers (Switzerland). Lille now lowered her prices, and the Swiss lace
trade sank in the contest.
Scarcely any but white lace is made; the patterns are varied and in
excellent taste, the work similar to that of Lille and Arras.
Some few years since the making of application flowers was attempted with
success at Mirecourt, and though it has not yet attained the perfection of
the Brussels sprigs, yet it daily improves, and bids fair to supply France
with a production for which she now pays Belgium £120,000 annually. The
Lorraine application possesses one advantage over those of Flanders, the
flowers come from the hands of the lace-makers clean and white, and do not
require bleaching.[676] The price, too, is most moderate. The production
which of late years has been of the most commercial value is the Cluny
lace, so called from the first patterns being copied from specimens of old
lace in the Musée de Cluny. The immense success of this lace has been
highly profitable to Mirecourt and Le Puy.
{253}The wages of the 24,000 lace-workers averaging eightpence a day, their
annual products are estimated at £120,000. Much of the Lorraine lace is
consumed at Paris and in the interior of France; the rest is exported to
America, the East Indies, and the different countries of Europe.
CHAMPAGNE.
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