The honour of introducing pillow lace into Germany is accorded by tradition
to Barbara Uttman. She was born in 1514, in the small town of Etterlein,
which derives its name from her family. Her parents, burghers of Nuremburg,
had removed to the Saxon Hartz Mountains, for the purpose of working some
mines. Barbara Etterlein here married a rich master miner named Christopher
Uttmann, of Annaberg. It is said that she learned lace-making from a native
of Brabant, a Protestant, whom the cruelties of the Spaniards had driven
from her country. Barbara had observed the mountain girls occupied in
making a network for the miners to wear over their hair: she took great
interest in the work, and, profiting by the experience derived from her
Brabant teacher, succeeded in making her pupils produce first a fine
knotted tricot, afterwards a kind of plain lace ground. In 1561, having
procured aid from Flanders, she set up, in her own name of Barbara Uttmann,
a workshop at Annaberg, and there began to make laces of various patterns.
This branch of industry soon spread from the Bavarian frontier to Altenberg
and Geissing, giving employment to 30,000 persons, and producing a revenue
of 1,000,000 thalers. Barbara Uttmann died in 1575, leaving sixty-five
children and grandchildren, thus realising a prophecy made previous to her
marriage, that her descendants would equal in number the stitches of the
first lace ground she had made: such prophecies were common in those days.
She sleeps in the churchyard of Annaberg, near the old lime-tree. On her
tomb (Fig. 114) is inscribed: "Here lies Barbara Uttmann, died 14 January,
1575, whose invention {262}of lace in the year 1561 made her the
benefactress of the Erzgebirge."
"An active mind, a skilful hand,
Bring blessings down on the Fatherland."
In the Green Vault at Dresden is preserved an ivory statuette of Barbara
Uttmann, four and a half inches high, beautifully executed by Koehler, a
jeweller of Dresden, who worked at the beginning of the eighteenth century.
It is richly ornamented with enamels and precious stones, such figures (of
which there are many in the Green Vault) being favourite articles for
birthday and Christmas gifts.
Previous to the eighteenth century the nets of Germany had already found a
market in Paris.[701] "On vend," says the _Livre Commode des Adresses_ of
1692, "le treillis d'Allemagne en plusieurs boutiques de la rue Béthizy."
"Dresden," says Anderson, "makes very fine lace," the truth of which is
confirmed by nearly every traveller of the eighteenth century. We have
reason to believe the so-called Dresden lace was the drawn-work described
in Chapter II., and which was carried to great perfection.
"Went to a shop at Spaw," writes Mrs. Calderwood, "and bought a pair of
double Dresden ruffles, which are just like a sheaf, but not so open as
yours, for two pounds two."
"La broderie de Dresde est très connue et les ouvriers très habiles," says
Savary.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account