This drawn-work, for such it was, excited the emulation of other nations.
The Anti-Gallican Society in 1753 leads the van, and awards three guineas
as their second prize for ruffles of Saxony.[702]
[Illustration: Fig. 114A.
BARBARA UTTMANN, WHO INTRODUCED THE LACE MANUFACTURE INTO THE ERZGEBIRGE.
From an ivory statuette by Koehler, Green Vault, Dresden.
_To face page 262._]
{263}Ireland, in 1755, gave a premium of £5 for the best imitation of
"Dresden point," while the Edinburgh Society, following in the wake, a year
later presents to Miss Jenny Dalrymple a gold medal for "the best imitation
of Dresden work in a pair of ruffles."
In the _Fool of Quality_,[703] and other works from 1760 to 1770, we have
"Dresden aprons," "Dresden ruffles," showing that point to have been in
high fashion. Wraxall, too, 1778, describes a Polish beauty as wearing "a
broad Medicis of Dresden lace." As early as 1760 "Dresden work" is
advertised as taught to young ladies in a boarding-school at Kelso,[704]
together with "shell-work in grottoes, flowers, catgut, working lace on
bobbins or wires, and other useful accomplishments."
The lace of Saxony has sadly degenerated since the eighteenth century. The
patterns are old and ungraceful, and the lace of inferior workmanship, but,
owing to the low price of labour, they have the great advantage of
cheapness, which enables them to compete with France in the American and
Russian markets. In all parts of Germany there are some few men who make
lace. On the Saxon side of the Erzgebirge many boys are employed, and
during the winter season men of all ages work at the pillow; and it is
observed that the lace made by men is firmer and of a superior quality to
that of the women. The lace is a dentelle torchon of large pattern, much in
the style of the old lace of Ischia.[705]
The Saxon needle-lace of the present day is made in imitation of old
Brussels, with small flowers on a réseau. Some is worked in coloured
thread, and also black silk lace of the Chantilly type is made: of this the
Erzgebirge is the chief centre. This lace is costly, and is sold at Dresden
and other large towns of Germany, and particularly at Paris, where the
dealers pass it off for old lace. This fabric employed, in 1851, 300
workers. A quantity of so-called Maltese lace is also made, but torchon
predominates.
The Museum for Art and Industry, opened at Vienna in 1865, contains several
pattern-books of the sixteenth century, and in it has been exhibited a fine
collection of ancient lace belonging to General von Hauslaub,
Master-General of the Ordnance.
{264}GERMANY (NORTH AND SOUTH).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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