Germany in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries was renowned for its
lacis, cut-work, and embroidery with thread on net, of which there are
several good examples in the Victoria and Albert Museum, together with
specimens of early Flemish work from their colonies on the Elbe,
established in the twelfth century by various German rulers. The work of
these towns is of later date--of the fifteenth century--and has continued
to the nineteenth century, when they made cambric caps, embroidered or
ornamented with drawn-work, and edged with bobbin-made Tönder lace, in the
style of eighteenth century Valenciennes.
"Presque dans toutes sortes d'arts les plus habiles ouvriers, ainsi que les
plus riches négociants, sont de la religion prétendue réformée," said the
Chancellor d'Aguesseau;[706] and when his master, Louis XIV., whom he, in
not too respectful terms, calls "le roi trop crédule," signed the Act of
Revocation (1685), Europe was at once inundated with the most skilful
workmen of France. Hamburg alone of the Hanse Towns received the wanderers.
Lubec and Bremen, in defiance of the remonstrances of the Protestant
princes, allowed no strangers to settle within their precincts. The
emigrants soon established considerable manufactures of gold and silver
lace, and also that now extinct fabric known under the name of Hamburg
point.[707]
Miss Knight, in her _Autobiography_, notes: "At Hamburg, just before we
embarked, Nelson purchased a magnificent lace trimming for Lady Nelson, and
a black lace cloak for another lady, who, he said, had been very attentive
to his wife during his absence."
On the very year of the Revocation, Frederic William, Elector of
Brandenburg, anxious to attract the fugitive workmen to his dominions,
issued from Potsdam an edict[708] in their favour. Crowds of French
Protestants responded to the call, and before many years had passed Berlin
alone boasted 450 lace manufactories.[709] Previous to this emigration she
had none. These "mangeurs d'haricots," as the Prussians styled the
emigrants, soon amassed large fortunes, and exported their laces to Poland
and to Russia. The tables were turned. France, who formerly exported lace
in large quantities to Germany, now received it from the hands of her
exiled workmen, and in 1723 and 1734 we find "Arrêts du Conseil d'Etat,"
relative to the importation of German laces.[710]
[Illustration: PLATE LXVII.
SWISS.--From near Neûchatel. Early nineteenth century. Similar in make to
Lille and some Devon lace.]
[Illustration: PLATE LXVIII.
GERMAN, NUREMBERG.--Used by the peasants on their caps. The cordonnet
suggests a Mechlin influence, whilst the heavy réseau is reminiscent of
some Antwerp and Flemish and Italian village laces of the end of the
seventeenth century.]
PLATE LXIX.
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