As early as the reign of Edward III.,[753] the excessive luxury of veils,
worn even by servant girls, excited the indignation of the Government, who,
in an Act, dated 1363, forbade them to be worn of silk, or of any other
material, "mes soulement de fil fait deinz le Roialme," for which veils no
one was to pay more than the sum of tenpence. Of what stuff these thread
veils were composed we have no record; probably they were a sort of
network, similar to the caul of Queen Philippa, as we see represented on
her tomb.[754] That a sort of crochet decoration used for edging was
already made, we may infer from the monumental effigies of the day.[755]
The purse of the carpenter is described, too, in Chaucer, as "purled with
latoun," a kind of metal or wire lace, similar to that found at
Herculaneum, and made in some parts of Europe to a recent period.
M. Aubry refers to a commercial treaty of 1390, between England and the
city of Bruges, as the earliest mention of lace. This said treaty we cannot
find in Rymer, Dumont, {286}or anywhere else. We have, as before alluded
to, constant edicts concerning the gold wires and threads of "Cipre, Venys,
Luk, and Jeane," of embroideries and suchlike, but no distinct allusion to
"lace."[756]
According to Anderson, the first intimation of such an occupation being
known in England is the complaint, made in 1454, by the women of the
mystery of thread-working in London, in consequence of the importation of
six foreign women, by which the manufacture of needlework[757] of thread
and silk, not as yet understood, was introduced. These six women, probably
Flemings, had brought over to England the cut-work or darning of the time,
a work then unknown in this country.
All authors, up to the present period, refer to the well-known Act of
Edward IV.,[758] 1463, in which the entry of "laces, corses, ribans,
fringes, de soie and de file, laces de file soie enfile," etc., are
prohibited, as the first mention of "lace" in the public records.
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