The English edition of the Foedera, as well as the statutes at large,
freely translate these words as laces of thread, silk twined, laces of
gold, etc.; and the various writers on commerce and manufactures have
accepted the definition as "lace," without troubling themselves to examine
the question.[759] Some even go so far as to refer to a MS. in the Harleian
Library,[760] giving "directions for making many sorts of laces,[761] which
were in fashion in the times of King Henry VI. {287}and Edward IV.," as a
proof that lace was already well known, and formed the occupation of the
"handcraftry"--as those who gained their livelihood by manual occupation
were then termed--of the country. Now, the author has carefully examined
this already quoted MS., in the principal letter of which is a damaged
figure of a woman sitting and "making of lace," which is made by means of
"bowys."[762] As regards the given directions, we defy anyone, save the
most inveterate lover of crochet-work, to understand one word of its
contents, beyond that it relates to some sort of twisted thread-work, and
perhaps we might, in utter confusion of mind, have accepted the definition
as given, had not another MS. of similar tenor, bearing date 1651, been
also preserved in the British Museum.[763]
This second MS. gives specimens of the laces, such as they were, stitched
side by side with the directions, which at once establishes the fact that
the laces of silk and gold, laces of thread, were nothing more than braids
or cords--the laces used with tags, commonly called "poynts" (the "ferrets"
of Anne of Austria)--for fastening the dresses, as well as for ornament,
previous to the introduction of pins.
In the Wardrobe Accounts of the time we have frequent notice of these
"laces" and corses. "Laces de quir" (cuir) also appear in the
Statutes,[764] which can only mean what we now term bootlaces, or something
similar.
{288}In the "Total of stuffs bought" for Edward IV.,[765] we have entries:
"Laces made of ryban of sylk; two dozen laces, and a double lace of
ryban"--"corses of sylk with laces and tassels of sylk," etc. Again, to
Alice Claver, his sylkwoman, he pays for "two dozen laces and a double lace
of sylk." These double laces of ribbon and silk were but plaited, a simple
ornament still used by the peasant women in some countries of Europe. There
must, however, be a beginning to everything, and these tag laces--some made
round, others in zigzag, like the modern braids of ladies' work, others
flat--in due course of time enriched with an edging, and a few stitches
disposed according to rule, produced a rude lace; and these patterns,
clumsy at first, were, after a season, improved upon.
From the time of Edward IV. downwards, statute on apparel followed upon
statute, renewed for a number of years, bearing always the same expression,
and nothing more definite.[766]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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