The Venetian galleys at an early period bore to England the gold work of
"Luk," Florence, "Jeane" and Venice. In our early Parliamentary records are
many statutes on the subject. It is not, however, till the reign of Henry
VII. that, according to Anderson, "Gold and thread lace came from Florence,
Venice, and Genoa, and became an article of commerce. An Act was then
passed to prevent the buyers of such commodities from selling for a pound
weight a packet which does not contain twelve ounces, and the inside of the
said gold, silver, and thread lace was to be of equal greatness of thread
and goodness of colour as the outside thereof."[767]
The Italians were in the habit of giving short lengths, gold thread of bad
quality, and were guilty of sundry other misdemeanours which greatly
excited the wrath of the nation. The balance was not in England's favour.
It was the cheating Venetians who first brought over their gold lace into
England.
PLATE LXXV.
[Illustration: CAP. (FLEMISH OR GERMAN.)--The insertion is cut-work and
needle-point. The lace is bobbin-made, and bears a resemblance to Plate
XXVI., South Italian. Late seventeenth century. Length of lace about 12 in.
Photo by A. Dryden from private collection.]
_To face page 288._
{289}A warrant to the Keeper of the Great Wardrobe, in the eighteenth year
of King Henry's reign,[768] contains an order for "a mauntel lace of blewe
silk and Venys gold, to be delivered for the use of our right dere and
well-beloved Cosyn the King of Romayne"--Maximilian, who was made Knight of
the Garter.[769]
If lace was really worn in the days of Henry VII., it was probably either
of gold or silk, as one of the last Acts of that monarch's reign, by which
all foreign lace is prohibited, and "those who have it in their possession
may keep it and wear it till Pentecost,"[770] was issued rather for the
protection of the silk-women of the country than for the advantage of the
ever-complaining "workers of the mysteries of thread-work."
On the 3rd of October, 1502, his Queen Elizabeth of York pays to one Master
Bonner, at Langley, for laces, rybands, etc., 40s.; and again, in the same
year, 38s. 7d. to Dame Margrette Cotton, for "hosyn, laces, sope, and other
necessaries for the Lords Henry Courtenay, Edward, and the Lady Margrette,
their sister." A considerable sum is also paid to Fryer Hercules for gold
of Venys, gold of Danmarke, and making a lace for the King's mantell of the
Garter.[771]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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