The manufacture of bone lace in England had now much improved, and was held
in high estimation in France. We hear of Henrietta Maria sending ribbons,
lace, and other fashions from England, in 1636, as a present to her
sister-in-law, Anne of Austria;[961] while, in a letter dated February 7th,
1636, the Countess of Leicester writes to her husband, then in France, who
had requested her to procure him some fine bone lace of English make:--"The
present for the Queen of France I will be careful to provide, but it cannot
be handsome for that proportion of money which you do mention; for these
bone laces, if they be good, are dear, and I will send the best, for the
honor of my nation and my own credit."
Referring to the same demand, the Countess again writes to her lord, May
18th, 1637, Leicester House:--"All my present for the Queen of France is
provided, which I have done with great care and some trouble; the expenses
I cannot yet directly tell you, but I think it will be about £120, for the
bone laces are extremely dear. I intend to {331}send it by Monsieur
Ruvigny, for most of the things are of new fashion, and if I should keep
them they would be less acceptable, for what is new now will quickly grow
common, such things being sent over almost every week."
We can have no better evidence of the improvement in the English lace
manufacture than these two letters.
An Act of 1638 for reforming abuses in the manufacture of lace, by which
competent persons are appointed, whether natives or strangers, "who shall
be of the Church of England," can scarcely have been advantageous to the
community.
Lace, since the Reformation, had disappeared from the garments of the
Church. In the search warrants made after Jesuits and priests of the Roman
faith, it now occasionally peeps out. In an inventory of goods seized at
the house of some Jesuit priests at Clerkenwell, in 1627, we find--"One
faire Alb of cambric, with needle worke purles about the skirts, necke, and
bandes."
Smuggling, too, had appeared upon the scene. In 1621 information is laid,
how Nicholas Peeter, master of the "Greyhound, of Apsom," had landed at
Dover sundry packets of cut-workes and bone laces without paying the
Customs.[962]
But the
"Rebatoes, ribbands, cuffs, ruffs, falls,
Scarfes, feathers, fans, maskes, muffs, laces, cauls,"[963]
of King Charles's court were soon to disperse at the now outbreaking
Revolution. The Herrn Maior Frau (Lady Mayoress), the noble English lady
depicted by Hollar,[964] must now lay aside her whisk, edged with broad
lace of needle point, and no longer hie to St. Martin's for lace:[965] she
must content herself with a plain attire.
"Sempsters with ruffs and cuffs, and quoifs and caules
And falls,"[966]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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