must be dismissed. Smocks of three pounds a-piece,[967] {332}wrought smocks,[968] are no longer worn by all--much less those "seam'd thro' with cutwork,"[969] or "lace to her smocks, broad seaming laces,"[970] which, groans one of the Puritan writers, "is horrible to think of." The ruff and cuffs of Flanders, gold lace cut-work and silver lace of curle,[971] needle point, and fine gartering with blown roses,[972] are now suppressed under Puritan rule. The "fop" whom Henry Fitz-Geoffrey describes as having "An attractive lace And whalebone bodies for the better grace," must now think twice before he wears it.[973] The officer, whom the poor soldier apostrophises as shining-- "One blaze of plate about you, which puts out Our eyes when we march 'gainst the sunne, and armes you Compleatly with your own gold lace, which is Laid on so thick, that your own trimmings doe Render you engine proof, without more arms"--[974] must no longer boast of "This shirt five times victorious I have fought under, And cut through squadrons of your curious Cut-work, As I will do through mine."[975] In the Roundhead army he will scarce deign to comb his cropped locks. All is now dingy, of a sad colour, soberly in character with the tone of the times. PLATE LXXXII. [Illustration: JAMES HARRINGTON, Author of "Oceana," 1611-1677. Between 1630-1640. By Gerard Honthorst. National Portrait Gallery. Photo by Walker and Cockerell.] _To face page 332._ {333}THE COMMONWEALTH. The rule of the Puritans was a sad time for lace-makers, as regards the middle and lower classes: every village festival, all amusement was put down, bride laces and Mayings--all were vanity. With respect to the upper classes, the Puritan ladies, as well as the men of birth, had no fancy for exchanging the rich dress of the Stuart Court for that of the Roundheads. Sir Thomas Fairfax, father of the General, is described as wearing a buff coat, richly ornamented with silver lace, his trunk hose trimmed with costly Flanders lace, his breastplate partly concealed by a falling collar of the same material. The foreign Ambassadors of the Parliament disdained the Puritan fashions. Lady Fanshaw describes her husband as wearing at the Court of Madrid, on some State occasion, "his linen very fine, laced with very rich Flanders lace."[976]