The following year Charles II. issued a proclamation[980] enforcing the Act
of his father prohibiting the entry of foreign bone lace; but, far from
acting as he preached, he purchases Flanders lace at eighteen shillings the
yard, for the trimming of his fine lawn "collobium sindonis,"[981] a sort
of surplice worn during the ceremony of the anointment at the coronation.
The hand-spinners of gold wire, thread lace, and spangles of the City of
London, no longer puritanically inclined, now speak out boldly. "Having
heard a report the Parliament intend to pass an Act against the wearing of
their manufacture, they hope it intends the reform, not the destruction of
their craft, for by it many thousands would be ruined. Let every person,"
say they, "be prohibited from wearing gold, silver, and thread lace--that
will encourage the gentry to do so."[982]
In 1662 is passed an Act prohibiting the importation of foreign bone lace,
cut-works, etc., setting forth, "Whereas many poor children have attained
great dexterity in the {336}making thereof, the persons so employed have
served most parts of the kingdom with bone lace, and for the carrying out
of the same trade have caused much thread to be brought into the country,
whereby the customs have been greatly advanced, until of late large
quantities of bone lace, cut-work, etc., were brought into the kingdom and
sold contrary to the former Statutes and the proclamation of November last;
all such bone lace is to be forfeited, and a penalty of £100 paid by the
offender."[983]
This same Act only occasioned the more smuggling of lace from Flanders, for
the point made in England had never attained the beauty of Brussels, and
indeed, wherever fine lace is mentioned at this period it is always of
foreign fabric. That Charles himself was of this opinion there can be no
doubt, for in the very same year he grants to one John Eaton a license to
import such quantities of lace "made beyond the seas, as may be for the
wear of the Queen, our dear Mother the Queen, our dear brother James, Duke
of York," and the rest of the royal family. The permission is softened down
by the words, "And to the end the same may be patterns for the manufacture
of these commodities here, notwithstanding the late Statute forbidding
their importation."[984] Charles had evidently received his lessons in the
school of Mazarin. As the galleries of the cardinal were filled with
sculptures, paintings, and majolica--rich produce of Italian art, as
patterns for France, "per mostra di farne in Francia"--so the king's "pilea
nocturna," pillow-beres, cravats, were trimmed with the points of
Venice[985] and Flanders, at the rate of £600 per annum, for the sake of
improving the lace manufacture of England.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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