Indeed, it was not till the arrival of the Spanish envoy, the first
accredited to the Protectorate of Cromwell, that Harrison begged Colonel
Hutchinson and Lord Warwick to set an example to other nations at the
audience, and not appear in gold and silver lace. Colonel Hutchinson,
though he saw no harm in a rich dress, yet not to appear offensive, came
next day in a plain black suit, as did the other gentlemen, when, to the
astonishment of all, Harrison appeared in a scarlet coat so laden with
"clinquaint" and lace as to hide the material of which it was made,
showing, remarks Mrs. Hutchinson, "his godly speeches were only made that
he might appear braver above the rest in the eyes of the strangers."
Nor did the mother of Cromwell lay aside these adornments. She wore a
handkerchief, of which the broad point-lace alone could be seen, and her
green velvet cardinal was edged with broad gold lace.[977] Cromwell
himself, when once in power, became more particular in his dress; and if he
lived as a Puritan, his body after death was more gorgeously attired than
that of any deceased sovereign, with purple velvet, ermine, and the richest
Flanders lace.[978] His effigy, {334}carved by one Symonds, was clad in a
fine shirt of Holland, richly laced; he wore bands and cuffs of the same
materials, and his clothes were covered with gold lace.[979]
The more we read the more we feel convinced that the dislike manifested by
the Puritan leaders to lace and other luxuries was but a political
necessity, in order to follow the spirit of the age.
As an illustration of this opinion we may cite that in the account of the
disbursements of the Committee of Safety, 1660, a political _jeu d'esprit_
which preceded the Restoration, we find entered for Lady Lambert--
"Item, for seven new whisks lac'd with Flanders lace of the last Edition,
each whisk is valued at fifty pound, £350."
Followed up by--
"Six new Flanders lac'd smocks, £300."
The whisk, as the gorget was now termed, was as great an object of
extravagance to the women as was the falling band to the men. It continued
in fashion during the reign of Charles II., and is often mentioned as lost
or stolen among the advertisements in the public journals of the day. In
the _Mercurius Publicus_, May 8th, 1662, we find: "A cambric whisk with
Flanders lace, about a quarter of a yard broad, and a lace turning up about
an inch broad, with a stock in the neck, and a strap hanging down before,
was lost between the new Palace and Whitehall. Reward, 30_s_." Again, in
_The Newes_, June 20th, 1664: "Lost, a Tiffany whisk, with a great lace
down, and a little one up, large Flowers, and open Work, with a Roul for
the head and Peak."
{335}CHAPTER XXV.
CHARLES II. TO THE HOUSE OF HANOVER.
----
CHARLES II.
"The dangling knee-fringe, and the bib-cravat."
--Dryden. _Prologue._ 1674.
The taste for luxury only required the restoration of the Stuarts to burst
out in full vigour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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