In 1763 another instance is recorded in the _London Magazine_ of a young
lady buried in her wedding clothes, point lace tucker, handkerchief,
ruffles and apron; also a fine point lappet head. From this period we
happily hear no more of such extravagances.
Passing from interments and shrouds to more lively matters, we must quote
the opinion of that Colossus of the eighteenth century, Dr. Johnson, who
was too apt to talk on matters of taste and art, of which he was no
competent judge. "A Brussels trimming," he declaims to Mrs. Piozzi, "is
like bread sauce; it takes away the glow of colour from the gown, and gives
you nothing instead of it: but sauce was invented to heighten the flavour
of our food, and trimming is an ornament to the manteau or it is
nothing."[1089] A man whose culinary ideas did not soar higher than bread
sauce could scarcely pronounce on the relative effect and beauty of point
lace.
If England had leant towards the products of France, in {368}1788, an
Anglomania ran riot at Paris. Ladies wore a cap of mixed lace, English and
French, which they styled the "Union of France and England." On the
appearance of the French Revolution, the classic style of dress--its India
muslins and transparent gauzes--caused the ancient points to fall into
neglect. From this time dates the decline of the lace fabric throughout
Europe.
Point still appeared at court and on state occasions, such as on the
marriage of the Princess Caroline of Wales, 1795, but as an article of
daily use it gradually disappeared from the wardrobes of all classes. A
scrupulous feeling also arose in ladies' minds as to the propriety of
wearing articles of so costly a nature, forgetting how many thousands of
women gained a livelihood by its manufacture. Mrs. Hannah More, among the
first, in her _Coelebs in Search of a Wife_, alludes to the frivolity of
the taste, when the little child exclaiming "at the beautiful lace with
which the frock of another was trimmed, and which she was sure her mamma
had given her for being good," remarks, "A profitable and, doubtless,
lasting and inseparable association was thus formed in the child's mind
between lace and goodness."
Whether in consequence of the French Revolution, or from the caprice of
fashion, "real" lace--worse off than the passements and points of 1634,
when in revolt--now underwent the most degrading vicissitudes. Indeed, so
thoroughly was the taste for lace at this epoch gone by, that in many
families collections of great value were, at the death of their respective
owners, handed over as rubbish to the waiting maid.[1090] Many ladies
recollect in their youth to have tricked out their dolls in the finest
Alençon point, which would now sell at a price far beyond their purses.
Among the few who, in England, unseduced by frippery blonde, never
neglected to preserve their collections entire, was the Duchess of
{369}Gloucester, whose lace was esteemed among the most magnificent in
Europe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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