When the taste of the age again turned towards the rich fabrics of the
preceding centuries, much lace, both black and white, was found in the
country farm-houses, preserved as remembrances of deceased patrons by old
family dependants. Sometimes the hoard had been forgotten, and was again
routed out from old wardrobes and chests, where it had lain unheeded for
years. Much was recovered from theatrical wardrobes and the masquerade
shops, and the Church, no longer in its temporal glory, both in Italy,
Spain and Germany, gladly parted with what, to them, was of small value
compared with the high price given for it by amateurs. In Italy perhaps the
finest fabrics of Milan, Genoa, and Venice had fared best, from the custom
which prevailed of sewing up family lace in rolls of linen to ensure its
preservation.
After years of neglect lace became a "mania." In England the literary
ladies were the first to take it up. Sydney Lady Morgan and Lady Stepney
quarrelled weekly on the respective value and richness of their points. The
former at one time commenced a history of the lace fabric, though what was
the ultimate fate of the MS. the author is unable to state. The Countess of
Blessington, at her death, left several chests filled with the finest
antique lace of all descriptions.
The "dames du grand monde," both in England and France, now began to wear
lace. But, strange as it may seem, never at any period did they appear to
so little advantage as during the counter-revolution of the lace period.
Lace was the fashion, and wear it somehow they would, though that somehow
often gave them an appearance, as the French say, _du dernier ridicule_,
simply from an ignorance displayed in the manner of arranging it. That lace
was old seemed sufficient to satisfy all parties. They covered their
dresses with odds and ends of all fabrics, without attention either to date
or texture. One English lady appeared at a ball given by the French Embassy
at Rome, boasting that she wore on the tablier of her dress every
description of lace, from point coupé of the fifteenth to Alençon of the
eighteenth century. The Count of Syracuse was accustomed to say: "The
English ladies buy a scrap {370}of lace as a souvenir of every town they
pass through, till they reach Naples, then sew it on their dresses, and
make one grande toilette of the whole to honour our first ball at the
Academia Nobile."
The taste for lace has again become universal, and the quality now produced
renders it within the reach of all classes of society; and though by some
the taste may be condemned, it gives employment to thousands and ten
thousands of women, who find it more profitable and better adapted to their
strength than the field labour which forms the occupation of the women in
agricultural districts. To these last, in a general point of view, the
lace-maker of our southern counties, who works at home in her own cottage,
is superior, both in education, refinement, and morality:--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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