Cavaliere Merli cites, as the earliest known painting in which lace occurs,
a majolica disc, after the style of the Della Robbia family, in which,
surrounded by a wreath of fruit, is represented the half figure of a lady,
dressed in a rich brocade, with a collar of white lace. The costume is of
the fifteenth century; but as Luca della Robbia's descendants worked to a
later period, the precise date of the work cannot be fixed.
Evidences of white lace, or passement, are said to appear in the pictures
of Carpaccio, in the gallery at Venice, and in another by the Gentile
Bellini, where the dress of one of the ladies is trimmed round the neck
with a white lace.[153] The date of this last painting is 1500.
Lace was made throughout Italy mostly by the nuns,[154] and expressly for
the service of the Church. Venice was celebrated for her points, while
Genoa produced almost exclusively pillow-lace.
The laces best known in the commercial world in the earlier periods were
those of Venice, Milan, and Genoa.
VENICE.
Mrs. Termagant: "I'll spoil your point de Venise for you."--Shadwell,
_Squire of Alsatia_.
"Elle n'avoit point de mouchoir,
Mais un riche et tres beau peignoir
Des plus chers de point de Venise
En negligeance elle avoit mise."
_Les Combats_, etc., 1663.
The Venetian galleys, at an early period, bore to England "apes, sweet
wines," and other articles of luxury. They brought also the gold-work of
"Luk," Florence, "Jeane," {48}and Venice.[155] In our early parliamentary
records are many statutes on the subject. The Italians were in the habit of
giving short lengths, gold thread of bad quality, and were guilty of sundry
other peccadilloes, which greatly excited the wrath of the nation. The
balance was not in England's favour.
"Thei bare the gold out of this land
And sowkethe the thrifte out of our hande
As the waspe sowkethe the honey of the be."
It was these cheating Venetians who first brought over their points into
England.
In Venice itself, extravagance in lace was restrained in 1542, by a
sumptuary law, forbidding the metal laces embroidered in silk to be wider
than _due dita_ (_i.e._, about two inches). This interference is highly
Venetian, and was intended to protect the nobles and citizens from injuring
themselves and setting a bad example.
At the coronation of Richard III., "fringes of Venice," and "mantil laces
of white silk and Venys gold" appear, and twenty years later Elizabeth of
York disburses sundry sums for "gold of Venice" and "other
necessaries."[156] The queen's accounts are less explicit than those of her
royal predecessor; and though a lace is ordered for the king's mantle of
the Garter, for which she paid sixteen shillings, the article may have been
of home manufacture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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