{65}Fig. 33 is a specimen of what has been termed old Milan point, from the
convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie, in that city. It is more often known
as Greek lace.
[Illustration: Fig. 33.
RETICELLA FROM MILAN.]
The so-called punti di Milano--points de Milan--were all bobbin-laces,
which originated in Milan, and, though imitated by Genoa and Naples,
remained unapproached in design and workmanship. After first making
passements, Milan imitated the Venetian points, "a fogliami," in which the
pattern has the appearance of woven linen, with à jours occasionally
introduced to lighten portions of it. The design was at first connected
with bars, but later, meshes (in the seventeenth century large meshes, and,
still later, smaller {66}meshes) filled the ground. This réseau varies, but
most frequently it has four plaited sides to a mesh, as in Valenciennes.
Like other Italian laces, Milanese lace frequently has coats-of-arms or
family badges woven in it, such as the Doge's horn, the baldachino (a
special distinction accorded to Roman princes), the dogs of the Carrara
family, and so on, to commemorate a marriage or some other important event
in the family. This sort of lace was known as Carnival lace when made of
Venetian point.
Milan lace is now represented by Cantu, near Lake Como, where the making of
white and black pillow-lace gives employment to many thousands of women.
The torchon lace of the country is original, and in much request with the
peasantry.
In the underground chapel of San Carlo Borromeo, in Milan Cathedral, are
preserved twenty-six "camicie," trimmed with flounces of the richest point,
all more or less splendid, and worked in the convents of the city, but many
of the contents of this sumptuous wardrobe have rotted away from the
effects of the damp atmosphere.
FLORENCE.
Of Florence and its products we know but little, though the Elegy of Agnolo
Firenzuola proves that ladies made raised point at an early period.[207]
His expression "scolpì," carved, sculptured in basso rilievo, leaves no
doubt upon the matter.
PLATE XVI.
[Illustration: ITALIAN, VENETIAN. NEEDLE-MADE.--Very raised and padded.
First half of eighteenth century. Width, 3¼ in.]
PLATE XVII.
[Illustration: ITALIAN, MILANESE. BOBBIN-MADE.--Early eighteenth century.
Width, 5¾ in.
Photos by A. Dryden from private collections.]
_To face page 63_
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