{95}A possible reference to lace is found in Father Fr. Marcos Antonio de
Campos,[274] in his book, _Microscosmia y gobierno Universal del Hombre
Crestiano_, when he writes, "I will not be silent, and fail to mention the
time lost these last years in the manufacture of _cadenetas_, a work of
thread combined with gold and silver; this extravagance and excess reached
such a point that hundreds and thousands of ducats were spent in this work,
in which, besides destroying the eyesight, wasting away the lives, and
rendering consumptive the women who worked it, and preventing them from
spending their time with more advantage to their souls, a few ounces of
thread and years of time were wasted with so unsatisfactory a result. I ask
myself, after the fancy has passed away, will the lady or gentleman find
that the chemises that cost them fifty ducats, or the _basquina_
(petticoats) that cost them three hundred, are worth half their price?"
[Illustration: Fig. 45.
UNFINISHED WORK OF A SPANISH NUN.]
"The most important of Spanish ordinances[275] relating to Spanish art and
industry are those which appeared in the {96}fifteenth and sixteenth
centuries in Toleda and Seville, both remarkable centres for all kinds of
artistic productions. In neither of these, nor in the sixteenth and
seventeenth century ordinances relating to Granada--another art-centre--is
there any mention of lace.
[Illustration: Fig. 46.
UNFINISHED WORK OF A SPANISH NUN.]
"In the laws which were passed by Ferdinand and Isabella at the end of the
fifteenth and beginning of the sixteenth centuries, no mention is made of
lace, though numerous {97}details of costumes are named. It will be seen
from these remarks on Spanish lace that we give to Italy the credit of
producing the artistic and valuable point lace, which unexpectedly came out
of Spain after the dissolution of the monasteries."
The ordinance of Philip III, against the wearing of lace, dated 1623, which
enjoined "simples rabats, sans aucune invention de point couppé ou
passement" for the men, with fraises and manchettes in like trim for the
ladies, both too without starch,[276] and which extended to gold and silver
lace, was suspended during the matrimonial visit of Prince Charles;[277]
indeed, the Queen of Spain herself sent him, on his arrival at Madrid, ten
trunks of richly-laced linen. The Prince had travelled incognito, and was
supposed to be ill-provided. Whether the surmises of her Majesty were
correct, we cannot presume to affirm; we only know that, on the occasion of
the Spanish voyage, a charge of two dozen and a half laced shirts, at
twelve shillings each, for the Prince's eight footmen, appears in the
wardrobe accounts.[278]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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