Judging from this account, Spain at that period received her "dentelles
d'Angleterre" from the Low Countries. Spain was early celebrated for its
silk,[282] which with its coloured embroidered laces, and its gold and
silver points, have always enjoyed a certain reputation. Of the latter,
during the seventeenth century, we have constant mention in the wardrobe
accounts and books of fashion of the French court. The description of the
celebrated gold bed at Versailles, the interior lacings of the carriages,
the velvet and brocade coats and dresses, "chamarrés de point d'Espagne,"
the laces of gold and coloured silk, would alone fill a volume to
themselves.[283] {99}Narciso Felin, writing in the seventeenth
century,[284] says that at that time "edgings of all sorts of gold,[285]
silver, silk, thread, and aloe, are made there with greater perfection than
in Flanders." Campany, another old author, carries the number of
lace-makers to 12,000. The Spaniards are said, nevertheless, in 1634, to
have derived a great part of their laces from the Île de France, while the
French, on their part, preferred those of Flanders.[286] That the lace
import was considered excessive is evident by the tariff of 1667; the
import duty of twenty-five reals per pound on lace was augmented to two
hundred and fifty reals. Much point was introduced into Spain at this time
by way of Antwerp to Cadiz, under the name of "puntos de mosquito e de
transillas."
Madame des Ursins, 1707, in a letter to Madame de Maintenon, ordering the
layette of the Queen of Spain from Paris, writes: "If I were not afraid of
offending those concerned in the purchase, in my avarice for the King of
Spain's money, I would beg them to send a low-priced lace for the linen."
{100}This gold point d'Espagne was much fabricated for home consumption.
The oldest banner of the Inquisition--that of Valladolid--is described as
bordered with real point d'Espagne, of a curious Gothic (geometric) design.
At the Auto-da-fè, the grandees of Spain and officers of the Holy Office
marched attired in cloaks, with black and white crosses, edged with this
gold lace. Silver point d'Espagne was also worn on the uniform of the
Maestranza, a body of nobility formed into an order of chivalry at Seville,
Ronda, Valencia and Granada. Even the saints were rigged out, especially
St. Anthony, at Valencia, whose laced costume, periwig and ruffles are
described as "glorious."
[Illustration: Fig. 47.
OLD SPANISH PILLOW-LACE.]
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