There are no large manufactories, and the trade is in the hands of women
and children, who make it on their own account, and as they please.[293]
Swinburne, who visited Spain in 1775, writes: "The women of the hamlets
were busy with their bobbins making black lace, some of which, of the
coarser kind, is spun out of the leaf of the aloe. It is curious, but of
little use, for it grows mucilaginous with washing." He adds: "At Barcelona
there is a great trade in thread lace."[294] Larruga, in his
{102}_Memorias_,[295] mentions a manufacture of gold and silver lace which
had been set up lately in Madrid, and in another place he[296] mentions
lace made at La Mancha,[297] where "the industry of lace has existed at
Almagro from time immemorial." Don Manuel Fernandez and Donna Rita Lambert,
his wife, natives of Madrid, established in this town in 1766 a manufacture
of silk and thread lace. This industry also existed at Granatula,
Manzanares and other villages in La Mancha. At Zamora "lace and blonde were
made in private houses." In _Sempere Historia del Lujo_[298] we find that
in the ordinance issued in 1723 the "introduction of every sort of edgings
or foreign laces was prohibited; the only kinds allowed were those made in
the country." Cabanillas writes[299] that at Novelda a third part of the
inhabitants made lace, and that "more than 2,000 among women and children
worked at this industry, and the natives themselves hawked their wares
about the country."[300]
The laces of New Castile were exported to America, to which colonies, in
1723, the sumptuary laws were extended, as more necessary than in Spain,
"many families having been ruined," says Ustariz, "by the great quantities
of fine lace and gold stuffs they purchased of foreign manufacture, by
which means Spanish America is drained of many millions of dollars."[301] A
Spanish lace-maker does not earn on an average two reals (5d.) a day.[302]
The national mantilla is, of course, the principal piece manufactured. Of
the three kinds which, _de rigueur_, form the toilette of the Spanish lady,
the first is composed of white blonde, a most unbecoming contrast to their
sallow, olive complexion; this is only used on state occasions--birthdays,
bull-fights, and Easter Mondays. The second is black {103}blonde, trimmed
with a deep lace. The third, "mantilla de tiro," for ordinary wear, is made
of black silk, trimmed with velvet. A Spanish woman's mantilla is held
sacred by law, and cannot be seized for debt.[303] The silk employed for
the lace is of a superior quality. Near Barcelona is a silk-spinning
manufactory, whose products are specially used for the blondes of the
country. Spanish silk laces do not equal in workmanship those of Bayeux and
Chantilly, either in the firmness of the ground or regularity of the
pattern. The annual produce of this industry scarcely amounts to
£80,000.[304]
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