Specimens of Barcelona white lace have been forwarded to us from Spain,
bearing the dates of 1810, 1820, 1830 and 1840. Some have much resemblance
to the fabric of Lille--clear hexagonal ground, with the pattern worked in
one coarse thread; others are of a double ground, the designs flowers,
bearing evidence of a Flemish origin.[305]
Spain sent to the International Exhibitions, together with her black and
white mantillas, fanciful laces gaily embroidered in coloured silks and
gold thread--an ancient fabric lately revived, but constantly mentioned in
the inventories of the French Court of the seventeenth century, and also by
the lady whose letters we have already quoted. When describing a visit to
Donna Teresa de Toledo, who received her in bed, she writes: "She had
several little pillows tied with ribbons and trimmed with broad fine lace.
She had 'lasses' all of flowers of point de Spain in silk and gold, which
looked very pretty."[306]
The finest specimen of Spanish work exhibited in 1862 {104}was a mantilla
of white blonde, the ground a light guipure, the pattern, wreaths of
flowers supported by Cupids. In the official report on Lace and Embroidery
at the International Exhibition of that year, we read that "the manufacture
of black and white Spanish lace shows considerable progress since 1851,
both in respect of design and fabrication. The black mantillas vary in
value from £4 to £50, and upwards of 20,000 persons are said to be employed
in their manufacture."
Before concluding our account of Spanish lace, we must allude to the
"dentelles de Moresse," supposed by M. Francisque Michel[307] to be of
Iberian origin, fabricated by the descendants of the Moors who remained in
Spain and embraced Christianity. These points are named in the
above-mentioned "Révolte des Passemens," where the author thus announces
their arrival at the fair of St. Germain:--
"Il en vint que, le plus souvent.
On disoit venir du Levant;
Il en vint des bords de l'Ibère.
Il en vint d'arriver n'agueres
Des pays septentrionaux."
What these points were it would be difficult to state. In the inventory of
Henry VIII. is marked down, "a purle of morisco work."
One of the pattern-books gives on its title-page--
"Dantique et Roboesque
En comprenant aussi Moresque."
A second speaks of "Moreschi et arabesche."[308] A third is entitled, "Un
livre de moresque."[309] A fourth, "Un livre de feuillages entrelatz et
ouvrages moresques."[310] All we can say on the subject is, that the making
cloths of chequered lace formed for a time the favourite employment of
Moorish maidens, and they are still to be purchased, yellow with age, in
the African cities of Tangier and Tetuan. They may be distinguished from
those worked by Christian fingers from the absence of all animals in the
pattern, the representation of living creatures, either in painting,
sculpture, or embroidery, being strictly forbidden by Mahommedan law.
PLATE XXXII.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account