Nor could they eat so encumbered. It is told how Reine Margot one day, when
seated at dinner, was compelled to send for a spoon with a handle two feet
in length wherewith to eat her soup.[400] These monstrosities, "so
stiffened that they cracked like paper,"[401] found little favour beyond
the precincts of the Louvre. They were caricatured by the writers of the
day; and when, in 1579, Henry III. appeared thus attired at the fair of St.
Germain, he was met by a band of students decked out in large paper cuffs,
shouting, "À la fraise on connoit le veau"--for which impertinence the King
sent them to prison.[402] Suddenly, at the Court of Henry, the fraise gave
way to the rabat, or turn-down collar.[403] In vain were sumptuary edicts
issued against luxury.[404] The court set a bad example; and in 1577, at
the meeting of the States of Blois, Henry wore on his own dress four
thousand yards of pure gold lace. His successor, Henry IV., issued several
fresh ordinances[405] against "clinquants [406] et dorures." Touching the
last, Regnier, the satirist, writes:--
"A propos, on m'a dit
Que contre les clinquants le roy faict un edict."[407]
Better still, the King tried the effect of example: he wore a coat of grey
cloth with a doublet of taffety, without either {142}trimming or lace--a
piece of economy little appreciated by the public. His dress, says an
author, "sentait des misères de la Ligue." Sully, anxious to emulate the
simplicity of the King, laughed at those "qui portoient leurs moulins et
leurs bois de haute futaie sur leurs dos."[408] "It is necessary," said he,
"to rid ourselves of our neighbours' goods, which deluge the country." So
he prohibited, under pain of corporal punishment, any more dealings with
the Flemish merchants.
But edicts failed to put down point coupé; Reine Margot, Madame Gabrielle,
and Bassompierre were too strong for him.
The Wardrobe Accounts of Henry's first queen are filled with entries of
point coupé and "passements à l'aiguille";[409] and though Henry usually
wore the silk-wrought shirts of the day,[410] we find in the inventory of
his wife one entered as trimmed with cut-work.[411] Wraxall declares to
have seen exhibited at a booth on the Boulevart de Bondy, the shirt worn by
Henry when assassinated. "It is ornamented," he writes, "with a broad lace
round the collar and breast. The two wounds inflicted by the assassin's
knife are plainly visible."[412]
PLATE XLVI.
[Illustration: RUFF, EDGED WITH LACE.--In the Musée de Cluny, Paris.]
_To face page 142._
{143}In the inventory[413] made at the death of Madame Gabrielle, the fair
Duchesse de Beaufort, we find entered sleeves and towels of point couppé,
with fine handkerchiefs, gifts of the King to be worn at court, of such an
extraordinary value that Henry requires them to be straightway restored to
him. In the same list appears the duchess's bed of ivory,[414] with
hangings for the room of rézeuil.[415]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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