History of the FanRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
History of the Fan
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Fans
Authentic examples of these flag-fans are exceedingly rare. A richly
embroidered Venetian fan of the sixteenth century is in the collection
of the Grand Duke Frederick of Baden; another, also Italian, has a
large oval medallion with ornaments of silver and brown, and is in the
collection of Mr. G. J. Rosenberg of Karlsruhe; a third, _abanico di
novia_, of white vellum enriched with Venetian lace of the sixteenth
century, is referred to by Blondel as being in the possession of Madame
Achille Jubinal of Paris.
These fans were probably introduced into the western countries of
Europe by the returning Crusaders. They never, apparently, obtained any
great vogue except in Italy; they continued, however, in intermittent
use until the close of the sixteenth century, when, together with
feather, tuft, and cockade fans, they gradually gave place to the
modern folding-fan which had by this time made its appearance in
Portugal from the Far East.
From the fourteenth century onwards, the history of the fan becomes
more clear, and Blondel quotes a number of French inventories in which
the fan figures—that of the Comptesse Mahaut d’Artois (1316), an
émouchoir with silver handle; of Queen Clémence (1328), an émouchoir
of silk brocade; and also in the will or testament of Queen Johanne of
Évreux (1372), a jewelled émouchoir costing five golden francs.[77]
The cockade form, _à la cocarde_, has been in use during all periods
subsequent to its first introduction from the East in the early
centuries of our era. We have already referred at some length to the
cockade flabella at Tournus and Monza. In an inventory of Charles V. of
France, 1380, we read of ‘un esmouchouer rond, qui se ploye, en yvoire,
aux armes de France et de Navarre, à un manche d’ybenus.’[78]
During the fourteenth century, the long-handled flabellum was also in
use, waved by attendants as at Thebes and Rome. In the inventory above
quoted (Charles V.) occurs—‘Trois bannières, ou esmouchoers, de cuir
ouvré, dont les deux ont les manches d’argent dorez.’ ‘Deux bannières
de France, pour esmoucher le Roy quand il est à Table, semées de fleurs
de lys brodées de perles.’[79]
The feather-fan, also, was in use during this reign, as we learn
from a curious entry in a letter of the Queen—alluding to a criminal
prosecution against some manufacturer of spurious coin—‘Le suppliant
trouva d’aventure un esventour de plumes, duquel il esceuta le feu—où
l’on faisoit la ditte fausse monnoye.’[80]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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