The little old Belgian, somewhat put out, now addressed his remarks to
me in a low tone: "It is a fact, sir. It was stupid, especially on our
part. You will see Holland. Amsterdam is certainly not Brussels; it is
as flat and wearisome a country as can well be; but as to prosperity
it is far beyond us. Assure yourself that they spend a florin, which
is two and a half francs, where we spend a franc. You will see it in
your hotel bills. They are twice as rich as we are. It was all the
fault of William the First, who wished to make a Dutch Belgium and has
pushed us to extremes. You know how it happened"--and so on.
In Hollandsdiep we began to see big barges, small-fishing-boats, and
some large ships that had come from Hellevoetsluis, an important
maritime port on the right bank of the Haringvliet, a branch of the
Meuse, near its mouth, where nearly every vessel from India stops. The
rain ceased. The sky, gradually, unwillingly, became serene, and on a
sudden the waters and the banks were clothed once more in fresh
glowing colors: it was summer again.
In a little while the vessel reached the village of Moerdyk, where one
of the largest bridges in the world is to be seen.
It is an iron structure a mile and a half long, over which passes the
railway to Dordrecht and Rotterdam. From a distance it looks like
fourteen enormous edifices put in line across the river: each one of
the fourteen high arches supporting the tracks is in truth a huge
edifice. In passing over it, as I did a few months later on my return
to Holland, I saw nothing but sky and water, so wide is the river at
this point, and I felt almost afraid the bridge might suddenly come to
an end, and plunge the train into the water.
[Illustration: Dordrecht--Canal with Cathedral in the Distance.]
The boat turned to the left, passing in front of the bridge, and
entered a very narrow branch of the Meuse called Dordsche Kil, which
had dykes on either side, and hence looked more like a canal than a
river. It was already the seventh turn we had made since we crossed
the frontier.
Passing down the Dordsche Kil, we began to see signs of the proximity
of a large town. There were long rows of trees on the banks, bushes,
cottages, canals to the right and left, and much moving of boats and
barges. The passengers became more animated, and here and there were
heard exclamations of "Dordrecht! we shall see Dordrecht." All seemed
preparing themselves for some extraordinary scene.
The spectacle was not long delayed, and was extraordinary indeed.
The boat turned for the eighth time, to the right, and entered the
Oude Maas or Old Meuse.
In a few moments the first houses of the suburbs around Dordrecht came
into view. It was a sudden apparition of Holland, a gratification of
our curiosity immediate and complete, a revelation of all the
mysteries which were tormenting our brains: we seemed to be in a new
world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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