Most of the houses are built of unplastered brick, ranging in color
through all the shades of red from black to pink. They are only wide
enough to give room for two windows, and are but two stories in
height. The front walls overtop and conceal the roofs, running up and
terminating in blunted triangles surmounted by gables. Some of them
have pointed facades, some are elevated in two curves, and resemble a
long neck without a head; others are indented step-fashion, like the
houses children build with blocks; others look like conical pavilions;
others like country churches; others, again, like puppet-shows. These
gables are generally outlined with white lines and ornamented in
execrable taste; many have coarse arabesques painted in relief on
plaster. The windows, and the doors too, are bordered with broad white
lines; there are other white lines between the different stories of
the houses; the spaces between the house-and shop-doors are filled in
with white woodwork; so all along the street white and dark red are
the only colors to be seen. From a distance all the houses produce an
effect of black trimmed with strips of linen, and present an
appearance partly festal, partly funereal, leaving one in doubt
whether they enliven or depress. At first sight I felt inclined to
laugh: it seemed impossible that these houses were not playthings and
that serious people could live inside them. I should have said that
after the fete for which they had been constructed they must disappear
like paper frames built for a display of fireworks.
While I was vaguely regarding the street I saw a house which amazed
me. I thought I must be mistaken: I looked at it more closely,--looked
at the houses near it, compared them with the first house and then
with each other, and even then I believed that it was an optical
illusion. I turned hastily down a side street, and still I seemed to
see the same thing. At last I was persuaded that the fault was not
with my eyes, but with the entire city.
All Rotterdam is like a city that has reeled and rocked in an
earthquake, and has still remained standing, though apparently on the
verge of ruin.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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