In passing through certain of the straight, narrow streets one
suddenly sees before him, as it were, a curtain that has fallen and
cut off the view. It is immediately withdrawn, and one perceives that
it is the sail of a ship passing down one of the canals. At the foot
of other streets a network of ropes seems to be stretched between the
two end houses to stop the passage. This is the rigging of a ship that
is anchored at one of the docks. On other streets there are
drawbridges surmounted by long parallel boards, presenting a fantastic
appearance, as though they were gigantic swings for the amusement of
the light-hearted people living in these peculiar houses. Other
streets have at the foot windmills as high as a steeple and black as
an ancient tower, turning and twisting their arms like large wheels
revolving over the roofs of the neighboring houses. Everywhere, in
short, among the houses, over the roofs, in the midst of the distant
trees, we see the masts of ships, pennons, sails, and what not, to
remind us that we are surrounded by water, and that the city is built
in the very middle of the port.
In the mean time, the shops have opened and the streets have become
animated.
There is a great stir of people, who are busy, but not hurried: this
absence of hurry distinguishes the streets of Rotterdam from those of
certain parts of London, which, from the color of the houses and the
serious faces of the citizens, remind many travellers of the Dutch
city. Faces white and pale--faces the color of Parmesan cheese--faces
encircled by hair flaxen, golden, red, and yellowish--large shaven
faces with beards below the chin--eyes so light that one has to look
closely to see the pupil--sturdy women, plump, pink-cheeked, and
placid, wearing white caps and earrings shaped like corkscrews,--such
are the first things one observes in the crowd.
But my curiosity for the present was not aroused by the people. I
crossed Hoog-Straat and found myself in new Rotterdam.
One cannot decide whether it is a city or a harbor, whether there is
more land than water, or whether the ships are more numerous than the
houses.
The town is divided by long, wide canals into many islands, which are
united by drawbridges, turning bridges, and stone bridges. From both
sides of each canal extend two streets, with rows of trees on the side
next to the water and lines of houses on the opposite side. Each of
these canals forms a port where the water is deep enough to float the
largest vessels, and every one of them is full of shipping throughout
its length, a narrow space being kept clear in the middle which serves
as a thoroughfare for the vessels. It seems like a great fleet
imprisoned in a town.
I arrived at the hour of greatest activity, and took my stand on the
highest bridge of the principal crossway.
Thence I could see four canals, four forests of ships, flanked on
either side by eight rows of trees.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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