The Dutch are great eaters. Their greatest pleasure, as Cardinal
Bentivoglio has said, is to be at a feast or at some repast. But they
are not epicures; they are voracious: they prefer quantity to quality.
Even in ancient times they were famous among their neighbors, not only
for the roughness of their habits, but for the simplicity of their
diet. They were called eaters of milk and cheese. They usually eat
five times a day. When they rise they take tea, coffee, milk, bread,
cheese, butter; shortly before noon comes a good breakfast; before
dinner they partake of some light nourishment, such as a glass of wine
and biscuits; then follows a heavy dinner; and late in the evening, to
use their own words, some trifle, so as not to go to bed with an empty
stomach. They eat in company on many occasions. I do not mean on the
occasions of christenings or marriages, as in other countries, but,
for example, at funerals. It is the custom that the friends and
relatives who have accompanied the funeral procession shall go home
with the family of the deceased, where they are then invited to eat
and drink, and they generally do great honor to their hosts. If there
were no other witnesses, the Dutch paintings are there to testify to
the great part eating has always played in the life of this people.
Besides the infinite number of domestic subjects, in which we might
say that dishes and bottles are the protagonists, nearly all the large
pictures representing historical personages, burgomasters, and
national guard, show them seated at table in the act of eating,
carving, or pouring out wine. Even their hero, William the Silent, the
incarnation of New Holland, shared this national love of the table. He
had the first cook of his time, who was so great an artist that the
German princes sent beginners to perfect themselves at his school, and
Philip II., in one of those periods of apparent reconciliation with
his mortal enemy, begged for him as a present.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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