An old gentleman came on board from a villa and took a seat near me.
He spoke French, and we entered into conversation. He had been in
Italy, knew some words of Italian, and had read "I Promessi Sposi." He
asked me for particulars in regard to the death of Alessandro Manzoni.
After ten minutes I adored him. He gave me an account of the
_trekschuit_. To appreciate the poetry of this national boat it is
necessary to take long journeys in company with some Dutch people.
Then they all live just as if they were at home; the women work, the
men smoke on the roof; they dine all together, and after dinner they
loiter about on the deck to see the sun set; the conversation grows
very intimate, and the company becomes a family. Night comes on. The
_trekschuit_ passes like a shadow through villages steeped in silence,
glides along the canals bathed in the silver light of the moon, hides
itself in the thickets, reappears in the open country, grazes the
lonely houses from which beams the light of the peasant's lamp, and
meets the boats of fishermen, which dart past like phantoms. In that
profound peace, lulled by the slow and equal motion of the boat, men
and women fall asleep side by side, and the boat leaves nothing in its
wake save the confused murmur of the water and the sound of the
sleepers' breathing.
As we went on our way gardens and villas became more frequent. My
travelling companion showed me a distant steeple, and pointed out the
village of Ryswick, where in 1697 was signed the celebrated treaty of
peace between France, England, Spain, Germany, and Holland. The castle
of the Prince of Orange, where the treaty was signed, is no longer
standing. An obelisk has been erected on its site.
Suddenly the _trekschuit_ emerged from the trees, and I saw before me
an extended plain, a large woodland, and a city crowned with towers
and windmills.
It was the Hague.
The boatman asked me to pay my fare, and received the money in a
leather bag. The driver urged on the horse, and in a few minutes we
were in town. After a quarter of an hour I found myself in a spotless
room in the Hotel du Marechal de Turenne. Who knows? It may have been
the very room in which the celebrated Marshal slept as a young man
when he was in the service of the house of Orange.
The Hague--in Dutch 'SGravenhage or 'SHage--the political capital, the
Washington of Holland, whose New York is Amsterdam--is a city that is
partly Dutch and partly French. It has wide streets without canals,
vast wooded squares, grand houses, splendid hotels, and a population
composed in great part of wealthy citizens, nobles, public officers,
men of letters, and artists; in a word, a much more refined populace
than that of any of the other cities of Holland.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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