What most impressed me in my first walk round the city were the new
quarters where dwells the flower of the moneyed aristocracy. In no
other city, not even in the Faubourg St. Germain in Paris, had I ever
felt myself such a poor devil as in those streets. They are wide and
straight, with small palaces on either side: these are artistic in
design and harmonious in coloring, with large windows without blinds,
through which one can see the carpets, vases of flowers, and the
sumptuous furniture of the rooms on the ground floor. All the doors
were closed, and not a shop was to be seen, not an advertisement on
the walls, not a stain nor a straw could be found, if one had a
hundred eyes. When I passed through the streets there was a profound
silence. Now and then an aristocratic carriage rolled past me almost
noiselessly over the brick pavement, or I saw some stiff lackey
standing at a door, or the fair head of some lady behind a curtain. As
I walked close to the windows, I could see out of the corner of my
eye my shabby travelling-clothes reflected clearly in the large panes
of glass, and I repented not having brought my gloves, and felt a
certain sense of humiliation because I was not at least a knight by
birth. It seemed to me that now and then I could hear soft voices
saying, "Who is that beggar?"
The most noteworthy part of the old town is the Binnenhof, a group of
old buildings in different styles of architecture, which overlook two
wide squares on two sides and a large pool on the third side. In the
midst of this group of palaces, towers, and monumental doors, of a
gloomy mediaeval appearance, is a spacious courtyard which may be
entered by three bridges and three doors. In one of those buildings
the Stadtholders lived. It is now the Second Chamber of the States
General; opposite to it are located the First Chamber, the rooms of
the Ministry, and the other offices of public administration. The
Minister of the Interior has his office in a little, low, black,
gloomy tower which leans slightly toward the water of the pool.
The Binnenhof, the Buitenhof (a square extending to the west), and the
Plaats (another square on the other side of the pool, which is reached
by passing under an old door that once formed part of a prison) were
the scenes of the most bloody events in the history of Holland.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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