Home labor saving devicesScott, Rhea C. (Rhea Clarke)
General
Home labor saving devices
Scott, Rhea C. (Rhea Clarke)
Home economics; Woodwork
There are many kinds of dry mash hoppers on the market but it is
difficult to find one that is not wasteful. This hopper which is made
of poplar is easily made and it has been found to be very successful.
It may be built of the desired length and made to hold the required
amount of dry mash. The most important detail in the building of
this hopper is the slope of the bottom which must be at an angle of
forty-five degrees with the wall of the henhouse. It must be built
well off the floor with a roost placed for the hens to stand on while
they are feeding. This will keep the litter out of the hopper. The
wire netting must be of one-quarter inch square mesh which is fastened
to the hopper and stretched to the bottom of the trough at its lowest
point.
MATERIALS:
12½’ poplar.
1 lb. 6-penny nails.
16 ¾” No. 8 screws.
32 No. 10 screws.
2 pairs of 1½” (butt) hinges.
1 piece of ¼” mesh wire.
2” × 2” gate hooks.
DIMENSIONS:
_Body_: 2 pieces 1” thick × 5” wide × 26” long, to be used as the
ends of the hopper.
2 pieces 1” thick × 9” wide × 19” long, to be used as the top
and the bottom of the hopper.
1 piece 1” thick × 19” wide × 26” long, to be used as back of
the hopper.
1 piece 1” thick × 19” wide × 17” long, to be used as front of
hopper.
_Trough_: 1 piece 1” thick × 4” wide × 19” long, to be used as
front of trough.
1 piece 1” thick × 5” wide × 19” long, to be used as the lid in
the front of trough.
2 pieces 1” thick × 4” wide × 9” long, to be used as sides of
trough.
_Roost_: 1 piece 1” thick × 2” wide × 21” long, to be used as
front of the roost.
2 pieces 1” thick × 2” wide × 15” long, to be used as sides of
roost.
DIRECTIONS:
Take the two end pieces (1” × 5” × 26”) and cut the tops at
an angle of 60 degrees and the bottom of these ends at an
angle of 45 degrees. Nail the bottom piece (1” × 9” × 19”)
to these end pieces and then nail on the back (1” × 9” ×
26”).
[Illustration]
The front piece (1” × 19” × 17”) is then nailed on the
hopper.
The two end pieces (1” × 4” × 9”) to be used on the trough
are cut at an angle of forty-five degrees at one end and
nailed on each side of the bottom of the hopper as shown
in the illustration. Then the front of the trough (1” × 4”
× 19”) is nailed to the sides. Tack the wire mesh over the
opening in the trough and hinge the front piece (1” × 5” ×
19”) on the front of the trough with one pair of 1½” (butt)
hinges. The other pair of hinges is used to fasten the top
(1” × 9” × 19”) on the hopper.
Make the roost by nailing the two sides (1” × 2” × 15”) to
the front (1” × 2” × 21”). Fasten this frame on the sides
of the hopper with two two-inch gate hooks as shown in
illustration.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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