Of fowls the variety is somewhat limited. We have of course the
domestic fowl. The most esteemed of all fowls is the crane, after
which come Bewick’s swan, the heron, wild goose, wild duck, common
duck, pheasant, quail, pigeon, woodcock, and water-rail, while
among the smaller birds are the sparrow, lark, and siskin. As we do
not use a knife and fork at table, all fowls have to be cut up before
they are served. A favourite way is to serve them in small slices in
soup; but they may also be brought in with vegetables on a plate. The
commonest method with the domestic fowl and duck is to boil them in
small slices in a shallow pan with bits of onion in a gravy of soy,
_mirin_, and sugar. The pan has a small hollow at a side, into which
the gravy runs so as not to saturate the meat too much. The small
birds are served whole, and when chopsticks fail, the hands and teeth
are brought into requisition.
It is only of recent years that we have begun to eat beef and pork;
but we have in Tokyo a large number of shops where they are sold.
There are two kinds of such shops; one is the regular butcher’s, while
the other is a sort of restaurant where beef is served in the same
manner as the domestic fowl and duck above mentioned. Here _sake_ and
rice are also obtainable. There are many restaurants in European
style; but the cuisine in most of them is non-descript and the dishes
are confined to the simplest kind. The absence of mutton, moreover,
sadly limits, the range of plats.
Though cooking is mostly done at home, no small quantity of prepared
food is bought for the meals. The most important of such food is the
bean-curd. For this the soy bean is soaked in water, ground, steamed,
and strained; and the liquid is allowed to coagulate by the addition
of brine and then pressed in a square box with a cotton-cloth bottom
until the water has been drawn off, leaving behind a soft white curd.
This curd is cut into small slices and put into soup in the morning;
it is sometimes thrown into hot water, and as soon as it is warmed,
dipped into a mixture of soy and _mirin_ and eaten. It is also fried.
Indeed, the bean-curd shares with the _tai_ the distinction of having
a special treatise dealing with a hundred ways of dressing it. Another
favourite breakfast food is the steamed peas, which are eaten with
mustard. Plums which have softened and reddened by being preserved in
perilla leaves are often, after extracting the stones, boiled with
sugar until they become gelatinous. Boiled beans, the egg-plant
preserved in mustard, and ginger in perilla leaves are common
breakfast condiments. Fish and vegetables coated with flour and fried
in rape-oil are favourite articles of diet. Commonest among fried
vegetables are sweet potatoes, leek, and lotus rhizomes, while
lobsters similarly served are highly esteemed. Another favourite is
the flesh of sturgeon minced very fine, seasoned with _sake_ and salt,
and baked. It is made into a roll with a hole through the centre or is
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