These two customs, then, naturally create a large demand for
confectionery of all kinds. The most common cake for making a present
of is a sort of sponge-cake. It is not of Japanese origin, but appears
to have been introduced by the Spaniards in the early days of foreign
intercourse more than three centuries ago. It is put in a cardboard
or wooden box; and, in view of the custom above referred to of passing
a present on from one to another until it grows stale, the best
confectioners in Tokyo now put on the box the date of its sale so that
their reputation may not suffer through the deterioration of their
confection by its repeated travels. The precaution, however, is hardly
necessary as the custom is too widely known for any one who receives
musty sweetmeats to accuse their maker of dishonesty.
[Illustration: A BOX OF SPONGE-CAKE.]
The bulk of confectionery is made of rice, red beans, millet, or
sugar. Glutinous rice is steamed, pounded in a wooden mortar into a
pasty consistency, and left to cool. This is made into little cakes,
which are boiled and eaten with greens in soup at the beginning of the
year and are at other times baked and dipped in soy and sugar. But for
making confectionery, the pounded rice is not allowed to cool as it
is, while hot, soft enough to take any shape. It usually forms the
outer cover of dumplings filled with a sugary mixture. The red bean is
boiled, pounded, and strained through a coarse cotton bag to get rid
of the skin, though the latter is sometimes retained, in which case
the straining is unnecessary, and finally mixed with sugar. This red
bean jam is the most important ingredient of Japanese sweetmeats as
there is in our confectionery no other equivalent of the fruit jam.
Sometimes, however, other beans are substituted for it, especially
when a white jam is needed. The red-bean jam is also used in making
red soup into which small rice dumplings are thrown; this soup is much
in demand, especially in winter, to while away the tedium of long
evenings. The red bean is also boiled with rice to give it a colour;
the red-bean rice is eaten in old-fashioned families three times a
month, on the first, fifteenth, and twenty-eighth. A kind of white
candy is made from a mixture of glutinous rice and rice-yeast.
Agar-agar, or the Bengal isinglass, which is obtained from a seaweed,
is used for making jellies. Starch extracted from the root of the
_kuzu_ (_pueraria Thunbergiana_) is also much employed in confectionery.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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